A question for people who have emergency back-up solar generators:

How did you calculate what size to get?

This is far outside my experience, I'm keen to learn from people who know their (solar) onions.

*As ever, I'm only looking for A) answers to what I asked, B) from the people I specified. Whatabboutery and second-guessing are not helpful or welcome. Thank you for your reading comprehension. xo

#Solarpunk #SolarGenerators #SolarPower #Solar #AskFedi

@ShaulaEvans Here's what little I've learned from shopping for a gas generator recently. (I'll be getting a solar soon.) Approximately, the wattage of the generator covers the total watts of all the devices being run at once. So you add them up. Maybe it's 5 10w LED bulbs, so 50w + a heater at 1500w plus a microwave at 1000w (only while it's on), so 3000w generator would cover it. Of course with solar, higher concurrent wastage use will use the battery faster (with gas it uses more gas).
@ShaulaEvans I measured how many solar panels I could fit on the roof (40 panels), checked what the highest power I could buy at the time was (410 Wp), dimensioned the inverters accordingly (5kW + 10 kW hybrid), measured my baseline load (200 W) and got two days worth of battery (9.6 kW).
@ShaulaEvans There’s no one true way. In the end you’re limited by what you can afford & available space.
Some key considerations:
- The inverter & battery need to provide enough power to (a) run the devices you want to run, simultaneously & (b) have enough reserves for the often much higher startup draw when first connecting a device.
- You can never have enough battery capacity, but it’s diminishing returns. Diversify your energy sources if you’re truly serious about grid independence.
@ShaulaEvans
- Panels are the cheapest component at this point, even the mounting brackets can be more expensive sometimes. Ideally, aim for a setup that works well for the worst case in your particular location, e.g. winter or whatever season has the fewest sunlight hours: this also extends to angles, so e.g. consider a mix of roof & wall mounting, the vertical panels will often yield more than roof ones in winter. If in doubt, add more panels.

@ShaulaEvans I think you're on the right track in your other comments about wanting to go without. It's also worth thinking about when you expect to use the solar generator. Maintenance and use are important -- it will naturally discharge if left unused for a long time, and that will damage the battery. Also, it's good to be familiar with its use so that you don't have to read manuals in an emergency.

I live in Adelaide, Australia (probably a similar climate to California, or maybe Texas - lots of sun). I have 360 W of solar panels, and 1.2 kWh battery. I have a 650W inverter (for 240V power, the standard in Australia) but it can deliver 1500 W for a short period of time (it's a Victron Phoenix 800, if that's of interest). As another commenter said, this inverter can just start my fridge compressor, which draws about 140W when running, but draws about 1500W when it starts. Some fridges now have soft start motors, which are great because they don't have such a large start up power (my fridge is not one of those sadly).

My system can boil water using a 12V kettle (eg. camping), but I can't run a standard kettle (it draws too much power). I can't cook with it (I have a solar oven, and an alcohol stove that I'd use in an extended blackout), and I think it could run the fridge unless the weather was cloudy in which case it would struggle.

One trick in a power outage is to buy bags of ice and put them in the fridge in a plastic container to catch meltwater. that'll keep the fridge cool without power. (ice isn't always available in an emergency of course...)

I think it'd be very difficult to run an air conditioner on a small system like this. In Australia, many people have whole-house batteries, which I think is what you'd need to run A/C

But it can easily run a radio, laptops, phones, lights, and charge my ebike ;-)

For you, it's also worth thinking about when you want to use it. What would cause a blackout, and would that affect livability (eg. an extended blackout would also affect cell phones, and even possibly water and sewerage_).

A rule of thumb (for Adelaide at least -- your latitude may vary) is that 1 kW of solar panels on average produce 3 kWh/day of electricity in winter, and 8 or 9 kWh/day in summer. But a cloudy winter's day might be less than 1 kWh of electricity per kW of panels...

Hope this is helpful!

@ShaulaEvans I got a portable 500Wh battery/inverter unit and a 100W panel, that is able to run a small (window) inverter heat pump, but would need a few more panels and double the battery at least to sustain heating or cooling. It is sufficient to run internet/wifi continuously while also charging tool or e-bike batteries, with good sun. But cloudy days will get only 15% of the panel rating and on good days 75%. High battery drain will be less efficient, so plan for like 80% of rated W.

@ShaulaEvans I looked at the costs and benefits and decided that whole house solar and house battery is likely a better value route particularly as we can sell the excess to the grid. It's possible to set that up to power the house whilst there is a power cut.

We're far enough north that it doesn't take much solar and battery to cover the summer usage however the winter is much harder with so little sun we'd only cover the very basics.

@ShaulaEvans totes following this thread. I'm at the point where I feel like I know how much battery/panels to get but I haven't physically got it and hooked it up yet, am I helpful here?
@ShaulaEvans like all good answers, it depends. Partly on what you mean by solar generator. Mostly on what you consider critical. If you're in a place that gets significant sun, that probably means refrigeration and air conditioning which are unfortunately not ideal loads for a solar inverter due to the reactance of inductive loads. 10-12kw is enough for a normal sized home to run everything as if nothing has changed. Battery size is much more so based on your actual usage, number of solar panel
@ShaulaEvans and battery charge rate limits. If you're looking for something portable, it can be more challenging to size without knowing more about the use case. I use a 5kw tri-fuel inverter generator running on natural gas for my backup to PV+batteries

@ShaulaEvans I bought the biggest solar generator system I could afford at the time - I think it's a 2500W output or close to that - and figured I could always add to it later.

I think that's where I'd start again. I haven't upgraded yet, but it's still an option. I bought from Jackery because they;re technically local to me.

@ShaulaEvans @oblomov Calculate your loads in kWh, them bump it up by 20% as a safeguard to not completely deplete your storage. Having generator backup in case batteries get too low is a great option as well, of if you do NOT want to oversize storage.

@ShaulaEvans

Over the years I’ve purchased two emergency back up batteries. Both are made by the US company Ecoflow. They plug into a wall socket so that they can be trickle-charged and ready at 100% to supply power in emergencies. Can also be recharged with solar panels, by a generator, or a car. I just spent as much on the battery purchase as I could reasonably afford. I didn’t worry too much about what my actual kWh need was. They are about to size of a small carry-on suitcase.