Tiltable Panda Touch Dock by LAYERED

The IdeaThe Bambu Lab P1S (and the P1P, too) is a great 3D printer. Unfortunately, however, it has a very poor display. There are a few projects that aim to improve this, such as the open-source project xtouch or BigTreeTech's Panda Touch. This model is about the latter. BigTreeTech offers a display for Bambu Lab printers, which provides pretty much the same interface as an X1C. But it can do more. The Panda Touch can also operate several printers simultaneously, up to 10. Included is a very rudimentary dock that is supposed to be stuck on top of the printer, over the original display. I didn't like that. I wanted a version that worked similarly to the display on the X1C. It should be able to be swiveled. And the model I am offering here does exactly that.The ComponentsThe picture shows all the parts needed for this dock (Edit: I forgot to include four threaded inserts).Bill of MaterialsNamePiecesSourceThreaded insert M3 Short4To mount the magnets plate on the hinge plate.CNCKitchen StoreM4x35 hexagon socket screw2To mount the hinge plate on the dock base.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4x12 countersunk hexagon socket head screw4To mount the magnets plate on the hinge plate.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4 hexagon locknut2Needed for the 2 “M4x35 hexagon socket screw” mentioned above.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)M4x9 washer2Needed for the 2 “M4x35 hexagon socket screw” mentioned above.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US, Carbon Steel)• Amazon (US, Nylon)M3x10 hexagon socket head machine screw2To mount the Dock Base on to the printer.• Amazon (DE)• Amazon (US)Neodymium magnets, 10x2 or 10x34Amazon (DE), Amazon (US)USB-A to USB-C charging cable (only two wires for 5V and GND are needed)1 Heat-shrinking tubing3• Amazon (DE)Panda Touch1Direct from BigTreeTech.If you have other sources where the above items may be cheaper, please let me know and I will add and/or update the information.The AssemblyFirst, you need to remove the original display from your printer. To do this, simply push it to the right (it may be a bit hard to move). Then you can easily move it away from the printer. Now remove the plug from the back of the display.Next you should prepare the USB-A to USB-C charging cable (as mentioned in the bill of material, a cable with only two wires for 5V and GND is good). Cut the cable at the USB-A end about 5-10cm from the plug. Depending on how long your cable is, you may need to trim the other part. Overall, a length of about 30cm should be sufficient. First, you have to prepare the dock base a little. The two lock nuts have yet to be pressed into the two hinge supports. It should then look like this.Then take the Dock Base, feed the display cable from the printer through the back and screw it to the printer with two M3x10 socket head screws. Now pass the part with the USB-C plug through the front of the printer (where the cable for the display comes out) and slide it to the right until it comes out again on the inside near the USB-A socket. The two pieces of cable must now be soldered together again. Important: Don't forget to pull the heat-shrink tubing over the wires and the cable beforehand! Now you can reconnect the original printer display to the cable and plug the display into the dock base.Now take the Hinge-Plate, thread the USB-C cable through from behind, attach it to the Dock-Base and secure it with the two M5x30 screws (don't forget the washers). Important: Do not overtighten the screws. The lock-nuts hold them in position and prevent them from loosening when the dock swings. Now you can prepare the Magnets-Plate. Press the two locking buttons through their holes... ...and glue the 4 magnets with superglue. Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the magnets! It is very helpful to attach them directly to the Panda Touch beforehand and then insert them one by one, with the same side in the corresponding hole on the Magnets-Plate. Now you have to take the little PCB from the original Panda Touch Dock on which the USB-C socket is mounted. It is the circuit board with the 4 holes. On one side there is the USB-C socket, on the other side there are two sockets with pogo pins. Place it like the image shows. Now place the small cover plate on top of the circuit board. This is only used as an additional spacer so that the four screws are not pushed through on the front. Mount the USB-C board with the 4 original screws. Now you can connect the Magnets-Plate to the printer with the USB-C plug, and thread the cable through the pins on the Magnets-Plate as shown in the picture (or arrange it differently as you like 😃). This is for strain relief. If necessary, push any extra cable back into the printer and screw the Magnets-Plate on tightly using the 4 M4x12 countersunk hexagon socket head screws. Now you're done! You can plug the USB-A end of the cable into the socket inside the printer. 🖥️ Here you can play around with a live rendering of the model. The Final ProductLast but not least watch the dock in all its glory. 😎