Alright, found a 3D model of the Ikea 365+ 10.6L container that everyone uses as filament box. However, it did not have a modeled lid, wich was exactly what I wanted.
My measurements are close, BUT not super precise, so don't complaint when I share the model, when reality is you should NEVER design something tightfitting for plastic containers like this, without a real life reference.
Now that I have the lid, I can model what I want to do to turn this into a rael filament box.
Things I know I DON'T want:
Drilling on the container body. Ever tried drilling those things? The plastic will shatter like crazy and drills will grab and pull like a velociraptor, and that's made even worse because the sides are at an angle, and drilling both the same is a pain in the ass.
Loose things inside the box (apart from the dissecant).
Roller carriers that are just sitting inside and can move and wobble around are just a no-no for me. It's just a matter of personal preference, nothing particularly wrong with it per se.
Plan is as follows.
Attach everything to the lid. It's way cheaper than the container, AND it's flat, so much easier to hold and drill, win-win.
Will make aluminium holders for each spool, and attach them (with screws or rivets, unsure about it) and use the springiness to hold the guide bars.
Done!
Will cut the pieces tomorrow and assemble on the weekend-ish.
I wonder if it will hold to riveting (with the large rivet face to the plastic)
Finally!
Kinda bodged the actual support axle, because now I want to do a different way of holding it, one rhat does ot require a 180° bend, and ot's much more reliable.
Of course, I made the noob move of forgetting to remove one diameter from the two screw measurement, so the end hole was 3mm farther than it should. 🤣
Now waiting for the corrected one to print.
Btw, I have to say, the dry filament prints so much better. I should do some more tuning later on.
Aha!
Flanged bearings pressed (or glued) onto 10mm OD stainless tubing, and held in place with the springiness of the holders. That'll be smooth and secure for normal operation.
Will have to wait until monday to cut more tests, tho.
There, now I don't have to worry about the incoming bowden giving trouble.
Also, the cheapo hygrometer has not gone below 10%. I do not know if it's because it can't, or because the dissecan't can't dry further. In any case, it's better than having the filament at 50-60%
A cross section so you can better understand what is going on on the spoolholder.
It's actually pretty simple and sturdy.
The spools will ride on the axles that rotate on ball bearings, so no matter how the spool is shaped, it will run smooth. I may use some silicone tube over the stainless if I feel it's noisy, but seriously doubt it will (not at least over the noise of the printer)
Wich is better?
/irony/
Definitely an awesome upgrade for the printer, besides the actual benefit of permanently dry filament.
Well, not everyday you nail first try the settings for the supports, so they release easily but also leave an acceptable surface finish in a roof.
I am now printing something with holes in it to see how it behaves.
Nothing like doing things calmly, especially using the marking jig and perforating slowly with an apropriate tool (spotting drill 2*5mm, spots easy, makes perfect rivet sized holes, will NOT wander on you.
I'll make 2 more with what I have left, and around this month, 2 extra, for a lot of 5 boxes, and 10 spools capacity.
So, I received this pair of spools that arrived damaged (bags are really fancy hermetic resealable type).
Support reply:
"we have determined that this happened during transport and since humidity is a long term problem, you can use them as normal, test them and get back to us if trouble arises".
No, mf'r, I built fucken fancy dry boxes to hold all my spools, and I am paying for quality and assurance that the dryness optimal conditions are met.
Now take them back, and I'm switching sellers.
And here it is on the box.
I ordered 20 new bearings, and got spare 10mm stainless tube for the axles, will finish them once those arrive.
This idea is dead sexy.
For the troubling holes (I hear you, with the drilling), I can think of 2 reasonable options:
1. Soldering iron - melt the hole, directly on the Sharpie marks you've made on the side for precise location.
2. Dremel grinding bit that's pointy on the end. Same story as the soldering iron, it'll burrow in using mostly heat, probably.
Hope I'm being helpful/useful.
I'll just avoid working on the container altogether. If I break something, it'll be lids, wich are much cheaper than the bodies.
But thanks for the advice ^^
@Rajiv I got expensive soldering irons for that. XD
Jokes apart, I'll just leave the container as is, and do all the work on the lids, as they are much cheaper than the bodies, and flat.
@Nixie I built this one, but modified the frame to fit a 24l very useful box. For drilling the 4 holes that fitted the larger box I clamped wood either side of the wall so it was well supported while drilling.
Drybox (Low Vitamin)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347698
I wanted to see if I could create a drybox that used as few vitamins (purchased parts) as possible. Along the way, I realized that my current drybox, which used 608zz bearings, spun WAY too freely, resulting in filament binding on the spool. This drybox is based around a file box from Office Depot (Item #840427): https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/840427/Super-Stacker-Storage-Box-19-Liters/ Additionally, I used foam backer rod (SKU #803064): https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-5-8-in-x-20-ft-Gray-Caulk-Backer-Rod-for-Gaps-and-Joints-71506/100165680 And finally, some run-of-the-mill 4mm PTFE tubing like you see in bowdens everywhere. Oh, and a bit of hot glue to put it all together. You'll have to drill a few 9-10mm holes in the side of the box for the filament ports, but otherwise there are no cuts or holes, and no bolts. The spindles are intended to be easy to replace without reprinting the arms that suspend them, and designed to be self-centering (there's a small taper toward the center)...though I'm not sure yet if that part works as planned. If you modify the OpenSCAD model, you'll need the threads.scad library from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27183
Nixie
hyratel
Ellis
Workshopshed
K1n@W00kie
Kelvin n0mql EN35ld
Ordinary Wonder
nobody
Bloognoo