Alright, found a 3D model of the Ikea 365+ 10.6L container that everyone uses as filament box. However, it did not have a modeled lid, wich was exactly what I wanted.
My measurements are close, BUT not super precise, so don't complaint when I share the model, when reality is you should NEVER design something tightfitting for plastic containers like this, without a real life reference.
Now that I have the lid, I can model what I want to do to turn this into a rael filament box.
Things I know I DON'T want:
Drilling on the container body. Ever tried drilling those things? The plastic will shatter like crazy and drills will grab and pull like a velociraptor, and that's made even worse because the sides are at an angle, and drilling both the same is a pain in the ass.
Loose things inside the box (apart from the dissecant).
Roller carriers that are just sitting inside and can move and wobble around are just a no-no for me. It's just a matter of personal preference, nothing particularly wrong with it per se.
Plan is as follows.
Attach everything to the lid. It's way cheaper than the container, AND it's flat, so much easier to hold and drill, win-win.
Will make aluminium holders for each spool, and attach them (with screws or rivets, unsure about it) and use the springiness to hold the guide bars.
Done!
Will cut the pieces tomorrow and assemble on the weekend-ish.
I wonder if it will hold to riveting (with the large rivet face to the plastic)
Finally!
Kinda bodged the actual support axle, because now I want to do a different way of holding it, one rhat does ot require a 180° bend, and ot's much more reliable.
Of course, I made the noob move of forgetting to remove one diameter from the two screw measurement, so the end hole was 3mm farther than it should. 🤣
Now waiting for the corrected one to print.
Btw, I have to say, the dry filament prints so much better. I should do some more tuning later on.
There, now I don't have to worry about the incoming bowden giving trouble.
Also, the cheapo hygrometer has not gone below 10%. I do not know if it's because it can't, or because the dissecan't can't dry further. In any case, it's better than having the filament at 50-60%
A cross section so you can better understand what is going on on the spoolholder.
It's actually pretty simple and sturdy.
The spools will ride on the axles that rotate on ball bearings, so no matter how the spool is shaped, it will run smooth. I may use some silicone tube over the stainless if I feel it's noisy, but seriously doubt it will (not at least over the noise of the printer)
Wich is better?
/irony/
Definitely an awesome upgrade for the printer, besides the actual benefit of permanently dry filament.
Nixie
Workshopshed