Lagrein, obviously more popular in Alto Adige, Italy, is being transplanted to other wineries too. I loved this super red from Jamesport in Long Island, N.Y. It may be ultimately that things like this work better in many regions that are less traditional than bigger wines. Structured, fresh and tasty, I'm liking this a lot these days. It's always about finesse, never jammy. This was a good vintage for it.

