I keep seeing #HamRadio antennas using all sort of huge devices to create links between band segments. Alligator clips. Wago blocks. Mueller clips. Mostly with the antenna wire tied to something stiff that makes it hard to roll up neatly, rather than using flexible cord. I keep looking for and not finding examples of my approach to linking.

My solution is so simple, neat, and tidy.

Marine heat shrink around the antenna or radial wire and dacron twine, and around bullet connectors. The dacron twine takes the load; this here is 120 lb test dacron kite line! The whole link here is about 18 cm long, but the length isn't that critical. High-shrink marine heat shrink (3:1 or 4:1) supports the interface of the antenna wire and the bullet connector. Then I use heat-shrink printed labels to identify the bands. No knots in the wire; knots weaken wire a lot and make points to break. The interface between the dacron and the wire is supported for about 45mm (depends on the size of the heat shrink). The dacron twine is just enough shorter than the wire to put a gentle bend in the wire.

Easy to connect. Easy to disconnect. Great conductivity, low resistive losses. Very strong under tension without weakening the wire. Inexpensive.

These example photos are from my linked dipole antenna, where I wind the copper-coated steel wire in figure eights on two sides of a form that avoids tight bends, and the whole thing fits in my small bag with my KX3 along with everything I need to activate with it. Each side has links for 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, 10m and 6m, and the whole thing winds easily on to the winder regardless of where the links are. The dacron being slightly shorter than the connected links means that if the link is across the winding radius of the form, the dacron takes the load there too.

@mcdanlj This is exactly how I did my linked dipole. I used friction knots to tie the string on cable as a die hard mountaineer but besides that difference its exactly as yours. It works and folds the best.

@alper I'm not alone!

I thought about a friction knot, but I didn't want the bulk of a knot when winding, and especially for the hard PE insulation on this wire wasn't sure it wouldn't slip over time. The adhesive on marine heat shink is one-and-done.

With silicone insulated hookup wire for a previous build that was a prototype, I tested to failure, and it was the wire that failed, not the link. Then I cut apart the links and it was clear that they held well.

I probably used a longer heat shrink section than necessary, but I didn't do experimentation to determine what was the shortest effective section to take a reasonable load, which I haven't even defined.

@alper Sometime I should try to rig a contraption with my hydraulic press and pull scale with peak hold so I can make sacrificial sections of this to test to failure and have a record of breaking strength. However, one problem I've run into in the past is having failure in the connection to the testing device instead of the device under test, so I'd have to consider this carefully to make sure I'm testing what I'm trying to test. 🤔