The #repair of this day is the water cooling circuit of the laser-tube in #CCCAC which broke last weekend.

The fix was made with a 3D printed part (modeled in #FreeCAD) that fits over the broken barb.
Unfortunately the FDM print was not watertight even with 100% infill. So I had to put even more epoxy around the part. Not it does not look as nice, but It seems to work.
No drops after 30min of runtime.

https://chaos.social/@cccpresser/116189703366747334

@cccpresser aw, would've been nice to do some testing with higher temps for better layer adhesion, but that design would've probably had to have less overhangs for that

@noiob You can print a stupid 'pressure vessel' for further tests.
We have plenty of fittings left we can use for experimenting with water pressure.

I would really like to know if one can get the FDM print watertight. Perhaps bricklayer-mode?

@cccpresser you can make PETG layers melt into each other if you get them really hot and overextrude some. but it takes some tuning and all I got to work was messier. Also overhangs will droop a lot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0
Transparent FDM 3D Prints are Clearly Stronger!

Using a special parameter, you can't only print transparent FDM 3D prints - this parameter will also make your parts super strong!Head to http://squarespace....

YouTube
@cccpresser @noiob you can print in abs and use acetone smoothing, works without infill.
@nd @cccpresser no, I can't print ABS
@cccpresser btw consider using g/flex epoxy from WEST systems or equivalent, it allows for some movement without breaking.

@cccpresser

A 10,000 nm CO₂ laser tube? Looks good.

@pinkmoon I have not yet tested it it actually lazzzers after the repair. Let's hope it does.

@cccpresser

Using silicone on glass would also be a solution, similar to how aquariums are sealed with silicone.