Finally found the gas leak in the basement--or rather, right outside. It's almost undetectable, but diffusing through the wall. Guessing there must be a break in the buried pipe and that's permeating through the soil and back into the house.
Multiple testing crews missed it--doesn't show up in the air or any of the fittings! But every few months I'd go down there and get a whiff of something so faint I couldn't tell if it was gas, something decaying, or I was imagining it.
@aphyr - I'm so glad I don't have to deal with gas. It's just too dangerous for my comfort level. I have an all-electric house. Sure, when the grid goes down I'm royally royally screwed. But I can also claim my energy usage is carbon-less (94% of my utility's power is solar and wind generated, and I have solar panels that offset about 80%-90% of what I consume), and I don't have to worry about suffocation or explosion, either.
@Illudium_Q36 Yeah, I'm slowly pulling out gas as well. It's just the stove and water heater now, and both will go induction/heat-pump once I have the money.
@aphyr - Down in Dallas and/or Fort Worth, there is about one house explosion per year. Parts of the city up here have gas, but not in my neighborhood.

@aphyr It's good that you found something.

Here, the gas network operator comes by at regular intervals and checks the pipes.

@bearleathermen Yeah, they do that here too, but because the leak is outside, all the previous crews missed it. You gotta get the sensor right up to a specific section of the wall and wait for it to tick up from 0.0% to 0.1%.
@aphyr iโ€™m glad you found it!