Carfree summer vacation with extensive train travel using #InterRail starts! We are going to Scotland to hike the West Highland Way. Raincoat is packed!
Today:
Malmö-Copenhagen-Hamburg-Cologne
Tomorrow:
Cologne-Brussels-London-Glasgow
1/n
Carfree summer vacation with extensive train travel using #InterRail starts! We are going to Scotland to hike the West Highland Way. Raincoat is packed!
Today:
Malmö-Copenhagen-Hamburg-Cologne
Tomorrow:
Cologne-Brussels-London-Glasgow
1/n
First ride is an electric accordion bus. This is a standard one, but the town has even bought so called superbusses, which have two "accordions", not just one. This is part of an ongoing transformation of traffic: Electric busses, Bikes, less cars, more trees. I love it.
A week ago, the town has introduced a new line network. This is the first time we ride with the completely new line 9, which will take us to the central station.
2/n
Now on to the Öresundstrain, which will take us in 34 minutes to Copenhagen central station. These go every 15 minutes, making Malmö sort of a suburb of Copenhagen. They are not 100% reliable, unfortunately, so on such trips, we go early and then have breakfast in Copenhagen.
3/n
This train goes over the Öresund bridge, which just filled 25 years! It's a smashing success and has completely transformed the region, causing Scania to now be a part of the Greater Copenhagen Area.
The cars go on the top lane, whereas the train is on the lower lane. That means unfortunately that the view is not so great, but let's not complain.
After the bridge, the train goes into a tunnel starting on the artificial island Pepparholm, where we pass Copenhagen airport (and don't get out!).
Now on to breakfast at Copenhagen Central station!
4/n
On to the train from Copenhagen to Hamburg. This connects Scandinavia to the rest of Europe and it is run jointly by DB and DSB. It is also notoriously unreliable and it is rare that one arrives in Hamburg on time. Indeed, already wagon 8 is locked and travelers on that one are relegated to a replacement bus.
The 4.5 hours trip is slow. Also, the wagons being used are old and not very comfortable. Today, we have old german InterCity wagons, I guess from the 90s. Often, the wifi is turned off once on enters Germany.
But better times are ahead: Denmark is building a tunnel that will shorten the trip by two hours, a game changer for Scandinavia! The construction is currently on time, and due to finish 2029. So yay Denmark!
Both the german and the swedish government behave quite ignorant of this, and the followup construction in both countries is at best in a planning stage.
Nevertheless, good times ahead for train travel in northern Europe!
5/n
After lots of fields and meadows, there's a real highlight on the trip, namely the Rendsburg High Bridge over the Kiel canal, both built during imperial times more than a 100 years ago. The track follows a circular pattern with modest slope up and down.
6/n
We did arrive in Hamburg on time, yay!
Hamburg has a DB Lounge, which is nice since it's a crowded station. Access has become more restrictive, but after a short discussion, they accepted our 1st class Interrail tickets with a Bahn Bonus Silver card.
It's unfortunate that you can't buy a day pass for these using Bahn Bonus points anymore.
Anyhow, off on the last leg for today, 4 hours to Cologne in a nice quiet and comfortable ICE.
7/n
And we made it to Cologne with 5 minutes delay. All in all, a nice, stress-free trip with fully electric modes of transport.
I slept, read, ate, chatted, and read lots of interesting information about international rail from you fedihomeys. Love it.
8/n
Our next train to Brusseles is cancelled. At the travel center, a friendly DB guy tells us to talk to Eurostar personnel, which will be there waiting for their train on the platform in a while.
So now we have breakfast at our hotel around the corner. We'll see.
The plan was Cologne-Brussels-London-Glasgow.
9/n
On a Eurostar to Paris on our way to Bruxelles, just an hour later. This train requires a reservation, which we do not have. When the train arrived, a crowd surrounds the train chief, as we were instructed to do. He waves everybody with a Eurostar reservation for bruxelles-london on the train.
Now, we only have 20 minutes for that connection instead of 80, and they say they close the gate 30 minutes in advance. So we'll see.
But now off to Belgium!
10/n
And for the bridge people among us: The train station in Cologne is next to the cathedral and thus the Rhine. To enter, we had to cross the Hohenzollern bridge, which, as the name suggests, was built during imperial times.
This is so, because the cathedral is of course on the western side of the Rhine, the side of the roman empire, so to say. The eastern side was hostile territory. This led to the unorthodox situation that what is now Cologne was part of three different states during the middle ages. Bonus points if you know which ones.
11/n
Arrived in Bruxelles on time and they even kept the boarding (with airport like security that cost us a knife) for the eurostar to London open. This is actually because of delayed passengers from Amsterdam and we will start with 20 minutes delay. Good for us and as @fluffcthulhu would put it: We are now in the train that goes under the sea.
We will now drive to France, where we will enter the 50 km Channel Tunnel to Folkestone, UK. From there, on to St. Pancras Station in London. The whole trip should take 2 hours, but we will change the timezone, so we gain an hour.
12/n
We have #Interrail tickets, and therefore, the whole possibly missing a connection to a train by a different provider is not a ticket issue, which is great.
However, reservations are extra and also mandatory on eurostar trains.
For this one, it was a whooping 38 Euros. However, a lunch is included, which was quite a nice surprise.
13/n
Arrived with 25 min delay at beautiful st. Pancras station. Will we find a stuffed monk?
The train to Glasgow departs from Euston station, which we walk to in 10 minutes.
We've missed our connection, and the next train goes an hour later. Now we have to fix a new reservation.
14/n
So we now depart from Euston an hour later than originally planned and got new reservations free of charge.
Except that luck has really run out.
Due to a damage to the powerlines north of Preston, the train ends there, and the we should take local trains to Carlisle, then Glasgow, which would take 2:40h longer.
But our train here in Euston has a failure and after having boarded it, we now need to get off again, waiting for a replacement.
15/n
Anyhow, the answer to the Cologne question is:
Free City of Cologne
Archbishopric of Cologne (until it lost a war to the city, at least)
Duchy of Berg
16/n
We did get a new train rather quickly and departed with only 30 minutes delay. After a medical emergency on board and a longer stop with staff running around and inspecting the tracks from outside for obstacles, we arrive at lovely Preston station with 90 minutes delay.
Now off on the next local train to Carlisle.
Unfortunately, the power problems are north of Carlisle and due to a fallen tree somewhere, and we are told that there will be no trains into Scotland today, and no replacement buses.
17/n
This is the train that got us to Carlisle. Again, another operator, not Avanti west coast. The train waits 20 minutes at the platform until it finally starts, but then it is very smooth.
Indeed, there are no replacement buses to get us to Glasgow. But there are Taxis instead!
This is a bit of a bummer, honestly, since the carfree holiday is now officially over.
The thought of paying for a hotel out of our own pocket crosses my mind, but I discard it.
We will be almost five hours late on arrival.
On another note, I can recommend the first murderbot novella, I am intrigued what comes next.
18/n
After a couple nights in Glasgow, now off to Milngavie where the West Highland Way starts. It's only half an hour. The first train takes us in ten minutes to Hyndland.
19/n
We take the next train on the same platform on to Milngavie. It's short, but ScotRail provides free wifi. There's no issues whatsoever.
20/n
Today, we started the West Highland Way. For eight days, we will hike about 20 km.
When hiking, we used to get a rental car, and over the years had reduced usage by doing more hikes accessible by public transport. Then we met a danish couple that was crossing the alps on foot. But with the comforts that I like, so luggage transport and hotels. So this year is the 2nd one where we do that as well.
Now, this is not strictly carfree in that our luggage gets transported by one. But thats only 150 km one way.
I won't bore with reports from Highland Hikes, this thread continues in a week!
21/n
155 km in 8 days to arrive in Fort William, successfully finishing the West Highland Way. Feet hurt. Yay!
22/n
Yestetday, we hiked up Ben Nevis, with 1344 m the tallest mountain in the UK. It is usually in the clouds, but we got a hot day without clouds (28 degrees in the valley).
The shortest route starts from the youth hostel there, which is 5 km from our accomodation. From there, it's a strenous 8 hour hike.
So we take a bus to the start and the earliest one arrives 9:10 and the latest leaves 17:15. This does not add up, and there are only 6 hikers on the bus.
A km down valley is a gigantic car park, packed with cars. Thus, more buses would make the bus line useful and it would have more use.
23/n
We need 9.5 hours and are finished at the end. But the views from the summit are awesome, we see the whole atea of the west highland way below us.
How do we get back? With a taxi :-( But we give a guy a lift. He's the first Guatemalan I meet.
24/n
Today, off to Edinburgh. First, with a slow local to Glasgow in almost four hours. It starts from the platform next to the "Royal Scotsman" aka "The Jacobite" aka "The Harry Potter train".
It is packed with tourists and we are glad we have a reservation.
25/n
Wow what a train ride. From Fort William, it goes eastward along Loch Treig while going up to 400m. It then drives through the highlands, with no house and no electricity lines to be seen. And you do not need to pay attention to the road, it's so awesome.
It then turns westward, meets the #westhighlandway, and drives alongside it for what was a couple days for us, until the middle of Loch Lomond.
Oh, and on the way we meet the
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_Belle_(train)
26/n
We arrive in Glasgow 25 minutes late, with 9 minutes to catch the next connection. Not a problem!
This is an air conditioned express train, 50 minutes to Edinburgh. Nice after the last one, which was none of those, and a Diesel train on top. In defense, it had free wifi and on board refreshment service!
27/n
We arrive at Edinburgh Haymarket on time, and take a tram to our accomodation. Easy!
28/n
In #Edinburgh, buses abound. They are everywhere, going every which way. There's at least ten people on any of them. The topography of the city makes traffic planning a challenge, and without the buses, nothing would move, just congestion. The image below is from Princes Street, the main shopping street.
A lot of them are electric, but the city still has a way to go.
A single ticket is 2:20 pounds.
Cycling is not really supported in the inner city and there's only a few bikers, risking their life.
A lot of buses are double deckers and ee have a lot of fun riding. Sitting on top of the driver, braking to be only a few cm away from the next bus, turning on a dime on a sloped, crowded street is a rollercoaster experience, though.
29/n
Now we start our long trip back, with many steps in between. Todays goal is Bruge (Brügge), where we will stay two nights.
The first leg is with northeastern railway to london King's Cross in 4 hours. We leave on time.
In 1st class, we get free hot drinks, water, fruit and lunch. Nice!
30/n
We arrive on time. It's a 100m walk to st. Pancras station. We have plenty of time and sit down.
There's a piano for people to use. A homeless guy sits sunken over it and dabbles in a sad way.
A guy sits down next to him and starts playing for real. They have a discussion, and the homeless guy plays a repetitive third hand.
Second guy leaves exasperated after a misplay. First guy now plays alone, but for real. Second guy comes back with staff telling first guy to move it.
Second guy now gives a solo concert. Third guy with skateboard joins him and now I don't really know anymore?????
31/n
And off to Brusseles in the train that goes under the sea, the Eurostar. It leaves on time and should bring us to Brusseles in two hours.
32/n
We arrive on time, which is just as well, since the distance and the crowds lead to us needing 20 minutes to get to the next platform.
Now on a belgian IC, which is one of those double decker trains, widely in use for regional transport (I think from Bombardier).
Just another hour, and we should be in Bruge.
No photo from the outside, because I was busy doing my tourguide job and recapping the history of Belgium, and forgot.
This sounds like mansplaining, but isn't. The wife organizes the whole trip and hands me guidebooks on departure. I'm then the tourguide.
So anyhow, suddenly Maximilian I. of Austria ruled over Burgundy, and you saw his grave in Innsbruck, remember?
33/n
And on time in Bruge, great train travel day.
Now on with a bus, and not a bike as would be usual here. Taking up the discussion on Edinburgh and cycling again, the sign points to the place with 2600 bike parking slots.
34/n
Today, off to Hamburg. We spend a great day in Bruges. The inner city is quite large, cobblestoned, and full of cars. The day was really hot, and the lack of trees didn't help.
We take an electric bus to the train station.
35/n
And back to Brusselles to finish our detour to Bruge. The same IC. We eat breakfast, provided by our wonderful ukrainian B&B hostess.
Her parents are still there, as are her two daughters, who are a lawyer in the army and a doctor. Their town now gets regularly bombarded. She says there are about 300 ukrainian refugees in Bruges and that they are very supportive of each other. She hates Putin. I don't really know what to say.
36/n
@philippbirken All the Murderbot books are very good. The last one is a bit confusing, but there are reasons.
It does sound a little bit cumbersome to travel by rail from Sweden to Scotland, but hopefully you did eventually get there.
🤔
@kallekn yeah, we got there, no problem at the end.
It is cumbersome. Long distance travel without flying is bound to be, but the large number of connections adds difficulty in this case. Going to Italy is easier.
So then I'll check out the 2nd book!