Damn. Just did my first print on the Bambu Lab A1. Given my experiences with other 3D printers over the last almost 10 years or so, this thing comes across like genuine alien technology. Printed the traditional 3DBenchy calibration test boat. Essentially all I did was push the filament into one of the four AMS Lite entry funnels, clicked print ... and ... that was it. Crazy fast -- about 20 minutes. Looks and feels essentially flawless. If I didn't know better, my first impression would be that it was injection molded. It takes a number of minutes before that print started since the machine was doing a variety of automated cleanup/purge/calibration steps, and then it launched and was almost a blur.

Very cool. Or hot. Or sick. Or groovy. Or whatever current euphemism you prefer. We're definitely in the 21st century with this one.

@lauren Nice!

I haven't tried Bambu Labs but I have noticed an uptick in usability across the board since about 2 years ago now that just about all manufacturers offer auto calibrating Z height, no-springs buildplate designs. These things Just Work compared to the old Ender 3 standard. And don't get me started on my first 3D printer - a Sunhokey Prusa-i3-based design with a perspex chassis. Never heard of Sunhokey? Yeah, well, that says it all.

#3dprinting

@marcusjenkins @lauren wow, I am using An ender 3 V 2 and I am lucky if I can get any print at all to not just end up a solid blob, this sounds cool in comparison.

@LeonianUniverse @lauren That's a real shame because 3D printing can be good fun. I'm definitely not an expert, but I've wrangled about a dozen printers in the last 8 years.

Solid blob sounds like whatever you're printing isn't sticking.

* Try normal PLA first, not PETG, PLA plus, ABS
* Print at ~ 190°C nozzle with 50°C bed
* Bed levelling - easy after the first few times
* Clean build surface with alcohol & kitchen towel between prints
* Use a little glue stick on the bed

@marcusjenkins @lauren as for bed leveling, I use the leveling paper method, easy method for sure to use and especially nice because I am completely blind and its all tactile.

@LeonianUniverse @lauren I also use the paper method on my non-automatic levelling machines. I may be telling you things you already know, but:

* You should do the bed levelling with the nozzle and bed at printing temperatures because of thermal expansion.

* Having the nozzle hot enough to melt the filament while levelling also ensures that there’s no solid filament hanging from the nozzle which would screw up the levelling.

@marcusjenkins @lauren wait... level while the printer is heated? Should I pre-heat the printer in advance before printing in order to give the filament sufficient time to heat up pre-print?
@marcusjenkins @lauren sorry if I am asking so many questions, its just... I want to at least make one successful print that doesn't come out like plastic shit.
@LeonianUniverse @lauren No worries at all. It's a real shame that you have a printer and it's not working for you. Everybody has problems to start with, especially with manual bed levelling designs. Once you get the knack of the paper trick and work out how to make a few good prints you're set. You may need to redo the bed levelling every few prints. If you start getting success I recommend a magnetic spring steel bed plate - they're an awesome upgrade.