Kenneth FinneganSo I've got this empty concrete pad on the side of my house.
It used to have a rotted out 12x24' shed on it, but I demolished that last fall and figured I could do something better... 🧵
Day one was grinding down the high spots with a diamond cup wheel. $75 for the cup wheel and corded angle grinder.
Day two is opening up the cracks with a diamond cut disc and filling them with crack sealer. $40 for the diamond discs and crack filler.
My dad volunteered to come down and help me restack all of the lumber inside of the fence and all in its own piles so I can get to all of it.
Only took the two of us about 2 hours to shuttle everything back there.
The inaugural wall frame. Now just fill with studs, repeat five more times, attach together, add roof, and bongo bango, you've got yourself a shed.
The inaugural mistake! I meant to leave that stud out so I'd have room to nail the header in.
So I guess we've moved to the "improvising" stage of this project.
Day two of framing my new shed. I woke up this morning and can still move, but I'm beginning to suspect that I don't want to quit my job and start framing houses for a living.
One wall panel done, second layout done. Now we just need to cut some studs and do it again.
The second panel went together much faster.
The site supervisor is sleeping in my office.
One of my neighbors came by to help me with the big lift. So we've got the tallest wall up in the air; everything from here on is lighter.
Alright. I found my limit. It is too hot and going back outside after noon was stupid. 🥵
We're up to a big J, which is exactly where I was hoping to get to today since this means the walls aren't all only held up with 2x4 braces and can kind of stand on its own.
The nice thing about driving a pickup truck is that when I tweak the shed design at the last minute and end up short a few 12 foot boards, I can just pick them up at the Home Depot.
We had some fog roll in this morning, so I took the opportunity to put a quick 90 minutes into framing another wall panel before it got hot today.
First good look of where the door is going and what the total footprint of the shed looks like.
Pat came over and helped me get the first row of OSB up, so the shed is finally stable enough I don't need to worry about a wind storm coming through.
Driving Tapcons freaking sucks and I don't want to talk about it.
I'm at that moderately stressful part where I need to make a final decision on the final roof line, and then make 16 copies of the first rafter I cut.
Pat came by this morning and helped me finish up cutting out all 19 rafters and nailing up all the hurricane ties to hold the roof on.
At that point we were ready to start putting rafters in the air, so why not?
The palm nailer was amazing for driving the hanger nails 11 feet up on an extension ladder. Easily the best $30 I've ever spent at Harbor Freight. Anyone who has an air compressor should pick one up; they're just so handy for driving nails in awkward tight spaces.
Got the last two rafters up, so just need to get the fascia and rake ladders up before we can start slinging roof sheething and shingles.
Another morning on the shed. We got all the blocking done between the rafters, so we're another step closer to SHINGLES!
I also just realized that it's been a month since I got the original lumber delivery for this shed! So here's how we're doing as a whole one month in from delivery.
Final progress for the whole weekend. We're about half done with the sheathing, then I need to go shopping for shingles.
Climbing the learning curve on applying zip system flashing tape this morning. Glad I started on the walls and not the roof.
And before you ask; yes, I rolled the tape. #zipsystem
Two rows of roof sheathing done. Just one more full row and a three foot row left before we are officially working on the roof itself.
Roof deck complete. Now I just need to paint the rake and fascia boards, tape the seams, drip edge, felt paper, rake flashing, and we can start laying down shingles.
T-50 staples weren't cooperating going into the OSB, so while my gun isn't technically rated for them, you ARE able to buy 3/8" narrow crown staples. Short enough to not poke all the way through the 1/2 roof decking, but rigid enough to not be giving my any trouble stapling the insulation baffles to the bottom of the roof deck.
These baffles are because I'm doing a vaulted / cathedral ceiling in here, so this guarantees an air gap / path between the ceiling insulation and the roof decking. This allows air to flow from the lower soffit to the upper soffit to transport away any moisture that accumulates in these rafter bays and keeps the shingles cooler by having circulation behind them.
Second evening finishes out the baffles. Just punching things out in prep for shingles.
We are getting tantalizingly close to laying down the roof! All of it fits nicely in my pickup too.
Doesn't look too bad when it's all neatly piled on the ground. I'm sure I'll be fine and this part will be easy.
I'm shooting the trim paint on the fascia and rake boards before doing the roof. I figure it's easier to paint it now before I put the drip edge over it.
The dog only got lightly misted with white paint. She still mostly looks black.
Got all the roof seams in the OSB taped. Trying not to think about the fact that just this was $100 worth of tape.
Taking a break from the roof to stay out of the sun, you can get this disodium octoborate powder which you mix with water and spray on your bare studs before closing them in to prevent termite damage.
Am I really convinced this will make a huge difference? Not really. But for $13, it's pretty cheap insurance. And it isn't a question that we'll get termites in here; just a question of how fast and how bad.
Some people also just use Borax for the same thing, but structurally tetraborate and octoborate are different enough I figured I'd splurge for the real stuff.
So I put down the two rolls of asphalt paper that goes under the shingles. On steeper roofs, you can get away with just the zip system coating, but since I'm building only a 3/12 pitch roof, I need two layers of underlayment, so I can count the zip system as one, then put down 30 pound felt paper as the second.
Would you believe how much I came up short? I guess I'm going to buy a third roll, for the last nine freaking square feet.
Day one of putting shingles on the roof. I got through four bundles before the sun really came out and I called it quits.
Key take aways:
1) the part that wreaks you is carrying the 70 lb bundles up onto the roof. For larger projects, definitely worth getting the shingles delivered directly to the roof.
2) the little 1 gallon 0.5scfm trim compressor I own is able to keep up with one rookie shooting roofing nails absolutely no problem. Glad I didn't go buy/borrow/rent/steal a larger compressor for this project.
3) I'm definitely just paying someone to reroof my house when it comes time. My dad was freaking crazy when he replaced the roof on his house back in his prime. I, also, am past my prime.
I keep rereading the installation instructions, because this stairstep pattern I'm getting seems really wrong, but this seems to be what GAF says....
Everything hurts, but I've got nine bundles on the roof. Probably one more morning of work, then a trip to Home Depot if I really do end up short a bundle like I suspect.
You know how I came up 9 sq ft short on asphalt paper?
You will not believe how much I had left to do when I ran out of shingles tonight.
And we are done with the roof! 370 sq ft single slope shed roof with no penetrations. GAF HDZ shingles, pewter grey.
I never did find any manufacturer documentation about how to terminate the top of a single slope, nor reach out to customer service about it, so I ended up just winging it with some 3"x2" drip edge on top of the top course, with asphalt cement on top of every nail.
Now we restart at the ground and work our way back up to the eves with siding and trim.
Today was the final push to the end on sheathing. I... dropped the nail gun and broke the magazine before we could finish. So we called it quits, and I need to figure out how to fix this framing nailer.
In the interest of preventing water intrusion under the wall, I used a diamond wheel on my angle grinder to cut a groove in the concrete, then set a strip of flashing into a bead of wet sealant in the groove.
For my next shed, I'm just going to build it on a raised foundation. This sucked.
The door for the shed has been delivered. Now I just need to unwrap it and slide it into the opening, right?
All that work putting OSB up on the walls, and now I have to go cut big holes in the side for windows? 😬
YES! I finally found a sheet metal shop who was willing to bend me the eight sticks of a custom Z bar profile I needed for the kick trim around the bottom of my shed.
Art's Sheet Metal Mfg. Came in with a post-it note drawing of what I needed, they pulled out their sample ring of thicknesses, and asked "do you need this this afternoon or tomorrow?"
$80 for 80 feet was practically off the shelf retail price, so we are finally unstuck on the siding.
Finished the flashing and zip tape around the perimeter of the wall today. I cut a groove into the concrete, then wet set the flashing into some sealant in the groove and zip taped the top of the flashing. So I'm really hoping this helps prevent any water coming in under the wall.
On top of this goes a PVC trim board, the Z flashing I've had so much difficulty finding, and then we can finally get started on the trim and siding over the OSB.
My shed finally has a door knob. Another awful fiddly bit that I hate of the whole fiddly bit that is hanging a door that I also hate.
So this is where we're at at this point.
Next things on the list is boxing in the soffits, trim along the bottom and all the edges, two more windows on the back wall, then we can start hanging horizontal lap siding.
Then lots and lots of work on the inside.
The soffit vent for the lower eves has been put in. The rest of this surface gets closed in with 1/2 ACX plywood, and this perforated vent allows air to flow up into the eve, across the bottom of the roof sheathing, and out a similar vent in the top eves. This will keep the shingles significantly cooler and give any moisture in my ceiling cavity a path out of the building.
These vents are also not straight. Because the fascia boards aren't straight. Because the rafters weren't straight. Because one of the walls is slightly crooked. And I just need to come to terms with the fact that this shed is still going to look really good when a normal human being looks at it.
Finished boxing in the upper soffit. It isn't perfect, but it's up high, and nothing some caulk and trim won't be able to hide later.
Still better than fighting with beauty boards and roofing nail punch though and block vents, etc etc etc.
The 8' sticks of soffit vent were about $25, plus all the boarding is just ACX plywood.
Normally you wouldn't have an "upper" soffit, but would have ridge vents in your roof. This only exists because I'm building a single slope "shed" roof to maximize the number of solar panels we can add later.
Today is another "cut big holes in a perfectly good shed" day. Hopefully I'll get the last two windows hung tomorrow.
Got all of the trim and a bit of the siding delivered for the shed.
The delivery guy actually remembered me from when he dropped off the original lumber package a year ago and the first words out of his mouth were "wow! You did it! That shed is looking great for being your first building"
😁 So work continues.
Figured it would be easier to paint the trim on the ground before mounting it to the shed than up in the air later.
While boxing in the soffit, I'm wiring in a plug for Christmas lights to a light switch inside.
Trim is coming together like I hoped. The siding then sits between each stick of trim. Got about 2/3 of the trim up today.
Previously I've been running all the power tools off an extension cord running from the house, but now that I've got an EcoFlow I'm just using that instead! It's handling all of the tools like a champ. The only thing it's struggled with is the miter saw; needed to turn on X-boost to use that saw without tripping the over current protection.
Rogan Dawes@kwf possibly a stupid question, but how do you get away with not having siding on your shed for almost a full year? Has it not rained at all?
Faux@kwf incredible stacking job. How did you even get those cardboard boxes in there? And the pocket dimension at the top?
Oh.
Michael K Johnson@kwf My parents did that with their current house (built when I was in my teens), including painting all the cut ends before installation, and it was so worth it.
RC2014@kwf
Picking the right straight line to follow is always a good challenge. #RC2014Towers has many datums that conflict, but, overall, still looks good to human eyes.
Picking the right straight line to follow is always a good challenge. #RC2014Towers has many datums that conflict, but, overall, still looks good to human eyes.
Chuck@kwf I think the wasps will still love it 🙂 It has been quite the project. I, like you apparently, often get caught up in seeing only the things I could have done better rather than the finished product.
@kwf Slaps shed, "So many mirrors can fit in this bad boy..."
😆 Looking good though!
Graham McIntire@kwf along with your idea that you’ll hire someone to do this next time 😂
morgan@kwf you should run Linux
/ducks
@morgan i really wish I had thought of that before getting covered in sawdust.
Steve KØSTK@kwf That's normal.
@@kwf That reminds me of wooden fence posts. Typical installation in the US is to pour concrete around them and to have the concrete be flush with the ground, such that water pools there and makes the wood rot. Typical installation in France is to have the concrete higher than the ground, and a galvanized steel brace into the concrete that the wood screws into, such that no water pools onto the concrete, and such that the wood can be changed without having to pull and pour the concrete.
kaybeeque 🍁💪💪🍁@kwf there it is! There's the finish line!
< trip><splat>🤦♂️
I know the feeling well! 😂
Good luck with the repair!
For whom the Taco Bell tolls@kwf I asked my roofer buddy he said it looks pretty good! Only criticism he had was don’t nail between shingles and maybe he would have used a larger piece of metal.
@madrush thanks!
you mean nails on the seam between two sheets of the last row under the metal? That's a good point.
My original plan was to run a big fat bead of asphalt cement on top of the last row of shingles and wet set the drip edge in it, but chickened out for fear of it running down the shingles.
@kwf his exact words were: It looks like in some areas they put nails where the shingles dip or have a gap so it lifted the metal drip edge.
@kwf I believe he’s referring to the nail closest to the camera that appears to be in a low spot and bends the metal a bit
@madrush ohhhh, yeah, that probably hit a void where I had cut the shingle a little too deep along the top edge. Between trying to line up the OSB, tar paper, and the leftover shingle tabs from making starter shingles, it was not a crisp line up there.
Jaakko Niemi@kwf Looking very nice!