Here’s a map! As there was a lot of waiting again today, a larger scale will work.
Good morning! Did you know there is a ferry from Pozzallo to Malta and it only takes an hour forty-five to cross? No that’s not the plan but it certainly is duly noted.
Pozzallo doesn’t have a ticket machine. Good thing ticket purchase through the Trenitalia app works quite well (only since August, if I understand the constant announcements correctly).
The next station announcement for Scicli is also in German but not in English. Did Baedeker like the place or something?

Quick change of plans. I wanted to take this train to Ragusa, but since Siracusa Depot hasn’t gotten the memo about Trenitalia’s new policy of keeping trains graffiti-free, I jumped off at Modica. From the map it looks like the section between Modica and Ragusa is the most scenic (with a helix and such), so should be worth re-rolling the dice.

But looks like this was my last ride on the Punk. Possibly for ever.

Right decision, I suppose.
Guess I was mistaken. (This certainly is a better “addio.”)

Palermo Centrale, where they have electrified the waiting area.

Stazione di fine giorno.

“It’s not cities that are loud, it’s cars that are loud.”

“What?”

“IT’S NOT C… ach, never mind.”

And today’s map. We started at nearly sea level, climbed up past Ragusa – a breathtaking section with gorgeous gorges*, then went down again to sea level at Gela, along the coast to Licata, then way up again to Caltanisetta, and from there down via Xirbi to sea level. Spectacular tour, this! The difference between the very dry south coast and the fertile north is markable.

* Oh, yes, he did!

G’day! Today I am trying something completely new: I will be using only one train for the entire day. It’s still a nine hour ride, mind.

But first, have a picture of a man on a horse.

Don’t underestimate the size of Sicily. The express train takes three hours from Palermo to Messina.
The plod is checking everyone’s documents. Like, properly, with scanning and typing names into phones and waiting around while we’re in a tunnel without coverage.

We’re going on a boat trip!

For the day Intercitys, they now just keep the locomotives on with the trains which speeds up operations quite a bit. Once your train has been pushed onto the boat, you can leave and wander around. Or not. Up to you, really.

Each four carriage plus locomotive half of the train (one from Palermo, one from Siracusa) fits exactly into one track.
How long does an iPhone last on a video call? Asking for the Australian lady across the aisle who’s been going on for an hour at least and won’t shut up.
Complaining to her friend on the speakerphone that people here are rude.

We’ve arrived in Villa San Giovanni exactly one minute early. Now just five more hours mostly north.

(The chatty Australians are going to Salerno. Guess it’s going to be a headphone afternoon.)

Twenty minutes past departure time in Villa and our driver just got bored and left the locomotive.
In many European countries you will find a white line going up and down in tunnels. They aren’t decoration but rather lead to a rescue alcove in the tunnel wall where you could hide from a train. The line is at the floor at an alcove and at its highest half way to the next one. Thus, wherever you are, you just need to follow the white line downwards to get to the nearest point of safety.
I miss my one hour breaks to take a walk through some small town. This is no way to travel!

The railway up the southern Tyrrhenian coast quite spectacular. Glad the night trains were all sold out.

(The sun is too low for train window photos, so you’ve got to go see it for yourself.)

Battipaglia, where the loop through the south closes. The end is getting nearer …

Almost on time in Napoli Centrale. We were a couple minutes early but got held up entering the station.

No map today since it is all very straightforward: Along the north coast of Sicily from Palermo to Messina and then along the west coast of the mainland from Villa San Giovanni to Napoli.

Good morning! The breakfast room was busy, so I went for a morning stroll through the old town of Naples instead. Much as expected, it is delightful, crumbling chaos.
Let’s do a bit of a train test this morning as these things are likely to appear in more places in Europe.
First issue: my seat is double booked. No, really. I checked. One reservation from a Trenitalia counter, one from ÖBB, both for the same day, train, carriage, seat. Let’s see what the conductor’s pad has to say.
Aha. So my question “Is that actually a 5?” was correct. The other reservation wasn’t for 5A but for 6A.

The ride quality of the train is as you would expect from a train designed jointly by Bombardier and Ansaldo-Breda. The suspension is very rough, lot of jittering and bumping and there’s a rather loud drone from the rolling of the wheels.

I guess the rule still stands: if you want smooth trains, go for Siemens or original Alstom.

The high-speed line between Rome and Florence has a top speed of 250 kph and still is electrified with 3000 V DC. Took them quite some to make that work as there are all sorts of unexpected physics things going on. By the looks of it, the wires are about twice as thick as normal, too. Should probably go and look up what the current limits are.
Look, if you fly over all the way from America, get on a train from Rome north and immediately get your iPads out, close the window blinds and watch some TV series, I’ll judge you. Sorry, can’t help it.
Past Firenze and right into the tunnels completing the full set of three of lines between Firenze and Bologna. (It really is a lot of tunnels, this.)
Ten minutes early in Bologna. This new underground high-speed station is a rather soulcrushing place. But at least it is right under the real station.
@partim actually Italy has the most tunnels and bridges in Europe. (maybe that implies also worldwide)
Italian orography is hard.
@partim Exactly. Went from Bologna to Firenze last spring. Booked window seats. Complete waste of effort: it's basically one long tunnel.
@partim I hate people who close window blinds on trains. I chose the window seat explicitly to look outside.
@partim a quick calculation suggests that a 3kV high speed train might draw around 2500A when accelerating
@25kV Couldn’t find the limit in the network statement. I know Prorail lists theirs which is in a similar range.
@partim incorrect. the top speed is 300Km/h
@quinta Design speed, yes. The operational top speed is 250. There were plans to increase it to 270 but the hasn’t happened.
@partim c'mon... I've travelled on that line for 5 years twice a week...
@partim
Interesting that they've kept the DC electrification on that line, whereas they've moved to 25 kV 50 Hz on more recent high speed lines.
@andrewprice I read an argument somewhere that they wanted to keep it as a backup for the classic line, but with ETCS L2, that’s not really possible any more. It does have a lot of connections, though, which would all need neutral sections which may be difficult to retrofit into the existing line geometry?
@partim I’m surprised. I’ve found those on HSLs to be perfectly fine. Not quite as smooth as a Frecciarossa 500, but better than the Italo AGVs that are noisy.

@jon It feels similar to the ICE 4 but worlds away from ICE 3 or the Duplex TGVs.

Curious how the new TGVs are going to turn out.

@jon The AGV project never went anywhere, right?
@partim Correct. But mostly because SNCF wanted pack-them-in double deckers, and no one else wanted them. Apart from the noise (which could be solved I assume) it’s a good train.
@partim Are you talking about an ETR1000? I've taken one between Milano and Paris and it was smooth as silk. Perhaps the infra was of poor quality where you took it? Suspension and bogeys cannot work miracles, no matter who makes them.
@apicultor But on the flip side, everyone can make rolling stock that runs smoothly on perfect infrastructure. I found its ability to deal with imperfections to be lacking. There were stretches where the phone shook so badly in my hand that I couldn’t read a thing any more.
@partim Then it sounds like the infra isn't up to scratch in those areas. Trains are not miracle workers and you cannot expect them to glide over shit infra, especially at high speed.
@apicultor All I’m saying is that there are trains that can do this better.
@partim
Will you go to Rome by Formia? In case, don't forget to see Gaeta out of the window: the sea will appear suddenly
@De_Treias I want to but I am quickly running out of time. So it’s AV all the way to Bologna tomorrow.

@partim They don't have a sidewalk thingy that the train doesn't hit? Huh.

(though our experience has been BART local-train tunnels, not sure if that's a differemt kind of thing)

@IceWolf These tunnels are mostly from the second half of the nineteenth century. Those were different times …
@partim Oh! It's weird remembering how /old/ Europe is.

@partim That is intentioal design as people will also aim to avoid i.e. smoke...

It's very nifty and subconcious design that has been tested with focus groups and propably saved hundreds of lives already...

@partim

@cstross

That's so cool! I love learning about these kinds of details about trains and engineering.

@partim @patrickhadfield I didn’t know that!
@peteralee @partim me neither! I sincerely hope I never need to know it, too! But at least now I do.

@partim it sounds like confiscation of the device for the sanity of other passengers would be in order!

I impressed it's not already been disposed of!

@patrickhadfield This is Italy. Sadly, this sort of thing is normal here. Otherwise I would have intervened by now.

(I’m mostly annoyed because I can understand all the shirt they are talking.)

@partim I've come across Australians yelling into communications devices for hours, too. Why is that?
@kurth Maybe because they are far away from home?
@partim I did the night version in the other direction from Rome to Taormina about 15 years ago and woke up early to watch them take the train apart to put it on the ferry, very cool!