I recently got the opportunity to take a #Mammut Smart out #climbing at Rattlesnake Point, and jotted down some thoughts.
tl;dr — I consider its grabbiness is a feature; its design purposefully counters at least two failure modes with the GriGri; carabiner choice matters.
Love it. Exceeded all expectations and then some. Serious contender to #grigri
@devnull
Where I learned climbing with DAV, the Smart is the officially used and recommended belaying device and I have also good experiences with it.
If you use the recommended lowering method, the lifting hand can grab the rope too and add friction to control the lowering speed.
If don't know them (yet), HardIsEasy has great detail/caveat videos on belaying devices.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnbbOxqwPK2lfkEP3FzIf2Q
@mkroehnert I do know of the channel, and thoroughly enjoy their videos. It is actually that specific video that got me thinking about alternative belay devices, thanks for sharing!
On the recommendations of some online, I ordered a DMM Ceros to try as a carabiner instead of the Element. Will also try the recommended lowering method as well, as that is one deficiency in my review I'd like to address.
Thanks for reading and commenting!
@devnull
I have been using the Smart with a DMM BelayMaster so far.
It does have some small groves but the main wear is on the inner side of the carabiner (see image).
What I prefer about the GriGri though, is that I do not have the rope friction in the hand while lowering.
@mkroehnert yes, one thing I did read online is that the Smart will "chew up" whatever carabiner you use. One wonders whether application of some sacrificial protective tape would be advised. It may also reduce the clanging noise of the device on my gear loop 😆
The belaymaster looks solid! I wanted an auto-locking carabiner with the keeper gate, so the Ceros fit the bill. Looking forward to trying it out.
@devnull
I would assume that tape will have a damaging effect on the rope when it runs through.
But any kind of (auto-)tube belay device will require replacing the HMS carabiner from time to time.
@mkroehnert this is a delayed response, but I went out again today with the Smart and tried lowering as recommended. To my surprise I found it just as easy as the other method (it certainly doesn't look as comfortable!). I was able to lower my climber quickly and safely.
The DAV really know what they're talking about!
Julian Lam
mkroehnert