Good morning to readers. Kyiv remains in Ukrainian hands.

You couldn't go anywhere in the capital city this week without seeing vyshyvankas, which have new meaning in a conflict where the existence of Ukrainian nationhood is at stake.

Today's email newsletter looks at vyshyvankas through the eyes of Mariya Zarenska, who has spent seven decades sewing and teaching others about the Ukrainian folk garments.

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Now 84 years young, she oversees a traveling exhibition of these embroidered garments.

In the last few years, her eyesight has deteriorated to the point that she can no longer sew effectively.

But she still spends her time teaching anyone who wants to know about vyshyvankas

And though her hand sewing days are over, she retains her role as half-entertainer, half-educator — an ambassador for Ukrainian customs.

Here she is briefing a middle school class on the clothing. You can just feel her energy!

A typical vyshyvanka features colorful embroidery on a plain white background, explains Oleksandra Storchay, a senior researcher at the National Center of Folk Culture, adding that it became associated with Ukrainian culture at the beginning of the 17th Century.

Spotted in Kyiv:

The outfit both unites Ukrainians and differentiates them.

Different regions have different patterns/colors associated. Floral patterns are typically indicative of the Kyiv region, and certain geometric shapes are typical of Ternopil, in western Ukraine, Zarenska said.

This week Ukraine marked Vyshyvanka Day, a day for those supportive of Ukrainian national identity.

Spotted in Kyiv:

During wartime it’s an act of protest and resistance: after all, Vladimir Putin doesn’t believe that Ukraine should exist as a distinct identity.

Spotted in Kyiv:

“Yes, my darling, they've been trying to do that for ages. How many times have kings or tsars been trying to destroy our culture? But they have never succeeded in this," Zarenska said. "And Putin, no matter how he tries, he won't succeed either."

Kyiv also remains under repeated Russian attack:

According to Ukrainian officials, there have been only four nights in the month of May without Russian enemy raids.

Image per Ukrainian govt; building on fire in Kyiv due to debris from Russian drone

These attacks are likely to continue for the indefinite future: Defense Intelligence Deputy Chief Vadym Skibitsky said that Russia has successfully established a production line for new munitions, and is able to produce approximately 67 missiles p/month

https://kyivindependent.com/defense-intelligence-russia-exhausts-old-missile-stockpiles-new-rockets-fresh-from-assembly-line/

Ukraine's defense intelligence: Russia able to produce up to 67 missiles per month

Russia has likely used up its missile stockpiles but has successfully established a production line for fresh munitions.

Kyiv Independent

Russia continues its production of missiles despite sanctions aiming to deprive them of this. “We will starve Russia of G7 technology, industrial equipment and services that support its war machine,” Ursula von der Leyen said today.

https://apnews.com/article/russia-ukraine-sanctions-g7-eu-biden-f5edb7c1849548423e8442e69ef14767

Sanctions against Russia and what the G7 may do to fortify them

HIROSHIMA, Japan (AP) — The Group of Seven advanced economies are expected to announce a new set of sanctions against Russia to try to further hinder its war effort in Ukraine during their summit in Hiroshima, Japan .

Associated Press

Meanwhile, the latest Institute for the Study of War update suggests that Russian forces have focused most of their remaining reserves to Bakhmut in the past 24 hours, slowing Ukrainian counterattacks.

Video of fighting in Bakhmut:

One of the things I struggle to explain to those who are not here is just how much the violence in the city is punctuated by bustling, normal life.

There are attacks, explosions and fires… and then there is this woman breakdancing to to Beyoncé's 'Run the World (Girls)':

Thinking about it, America isn’t really nationally unified by any particular fashion item or outfit. I suggested perhaps blue jeans, and Ross said a cowboy hat or traditional Native American wear. Do you folks have any other suggestions?
Ross and I have also begun the practice of trading these burger gummy candies with each other. I, a civilized individual, eat the ‘bun,’ followed by the ‘meat,’ followed by the other ‘bun.’ Ross, ever the barbarian, bites through all three layers at once.

Our Dog of War today is Becky, who is enjoying a nice spring walk with her partner on the streets of Kyiv.

Stay safe out there!

If this thread was the sort of immersive reporting that you'd like to read more of, please consider subscribing at http://counteroffensive.news

We really need your support to keep doing this!

Oh, and here is me in a vyshyvanka on Vyshyvanka Day earlier this week:

The Counteroffensive with Tim Mak | Substack

A war correspondent's open notebook, reporting live from Kyiv. Compelling human stories that illustrate what’s happening during the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Click to read The Counteroffensive with Tim Mak, a Substack publication with tens of thousands of subscribers.

@timkmak Now I hear Tank! by the Seatbelts playing with this photo.
@timkmak thank you for giving me a name to this shirt i bought here in the states and absolutely love. i know it’s not a Ukranian-made traditional shirt but inspired by it. even so, i now have knowledge about the style that i can happily share with anyone who asks me about it. #culturalinspiration #culturaladmiration #sharingiscaring
@timkmak
Thank you for your report. Very cool

@timkmak

Be safe! Thank you for reporting.

@timkmak
Please consider donation button on your site.
@MlleaPankhurst we have a subscription button that starts with free and goes up to whatever level you like!

@timkmak

The only choices I see are 8 per month or annual 80.

I didn't see choice of just donating. I am on so many lists and try to support democrats, humanitarian, animals, and Ukraine. I'm limited in what I can do.

@MlleaPankhurst I totally understand. Why don’t you just as a free member? We’d be happy to just have you :)

@timkmak

Be nice to support your work with what I can and encourage others as well.

@timkmak #alt4u Woman walking small black dog, with golden Orthodox church onion done in distance.

@timkmak When I was teaching, another teacher sent students in search of 3 items that represented America.

Kids showed up in my class with flags, copies of the Constitution, and photos of the Declaration of Independence.

One student asked me for help with the assignment, and I told him, "It's easy. A bullet, a buck, and a Bible."

Only one of the many reasons I was offered the opportunity to teach elsewhere.

@bitcodavid @timkmak hopefully the student remembers that, and remembers what a bad image of amerikkka it gives!!

@timkmak I have no idea, but "informal" is what first came to mind!

And it's interesting to think about what constitutes a "nationally unified" fashion. In Norway the "bunad," a romanticised version of traditional rural clothing, is a strong national symbol that most women wear once or twice every year.

But windbreakers, layer-upon-layer, and woolly jumpers are probably more indicative of what a lot of Norwegians actually wear.

@timkmak Tennis shoes? How Americans are spotted in France. Maybe not true any longer?
@CMDoran in Germany tennis shoes are not as easy to go by anymore as the bulky "Dad-sneaker" style have been on trend lately and I've seen the same in Italy, CZ and Poland. @timkmak
@timkmak Washed-out over-sized t-shirts?
@timkmak I think blue jeans informally symbolize the US, or at least used to — the availability of Levi’s on the black market in the USSR was a big deal.
@timkmak Although blue jeans is thought, by some, to originate from the USA, it is pretty global now. Sorry.
@timkmak a lot of American clothing has been adapted worldwide, making it less obviously American. Cowboy hats are very American, but also very Mexican (and I believe originate there). I’d also pick baseball hats, jeans, sneakers, t-shirts, cowboy boots, white linen suits, big belt buckles, bolo ties, hoodies.
@timkmak the US has several different traditional outfits, like the whole cowboy look, the Portland, Oregon look, and Native looks. The T-shirt is probably very distinctly "American" though.
@timkmak The lounge suit, a particularly atrocious form of garb.
@timkmak perhaps the baseball cap? 🧢
@timkmak honestly leather tooling strikes me as the closest thing, but that mostly something you see in the West.
@timkmak Gimme caps ? (a/k/a baseball caps) And that we wear t-shirts with logos/messages/cartoon characters on them almost everywhere.
@timkmak Do not appropriate Indigenous culture. The blue jeans are the national attire. Blue jeans, Hawaiian shirts and a cowboy hat. That should scream “American!” To everyone around.
@timkmak maybe the baseball cap? Maybe partly why the maga hat was so effective in the DJT campaign for better or worse
@timkmak #alt4u Short video of Ukrainians in a square enjoying life.
@timkmak NATO should target the factories. Yes I know this is a controversial opinion..