Printing a little #totoro out of 20% wood-infused #PHA #3DPrinting filament partly to see how well it does with supports (since it spans very poorly) and also to see how it takes sanding and staining and all that.
(there, I've posted something not birdsite today)
@joncruz Which infill as in pattern? 20% cubic. I think it gives good strength and coverage. I'd've cut to 15% but I got worried about the top layers behaviour - see again #PHA not spanning well at all.
As for the supports, it's touching-buildplate-only, 63° overhead angle, 20% density zigzag. Otherwise just letting #Cura (v5.2.1) do its thing.
I've set three skin layers, which normally would be excessive for a 0.6mm nozzle but I'm hoping it'll help maintain a good top given the poor spanning.
@moira have you tested with gyroid? I've not used wood, but for my defaults I go to 10% gyroid.
Aside from being stronger in general, I often see it going faster.
@moira I wonder what it would give you at different percentages.
Oh, forgot to ask, what layer height?
@joncruz 0.15, following an initial layer of 0.2. The bigger nozzle really wants a bumped layer height but I'm going for good detail.
I'm not really trying to make this a fast print, but a high quality one - despite it being an object I went to experiment upon. And being a wood infill, I really need that 0.6mm nozzle size, so.
Are you familiar with #FilamentFriday and his high-speed 0.4mm nozzle profiles? I've had very good luck with them on functional object prints.
@joncruz Oh also yes, obviously, cutting infill percentages would reduce the time again, but I was comparing like to like. Cubic is a lot like gyroid in a lot of ways, but straight lines instead of curved.
But I checked, and all else the same, 15% infill gets it back down to basically the estimate I have now for 20% cubic.
@moira ahh, yes. "like for like"
Instead of 'grams used for infill', might be better to measure 'strength along all three axes' and/or 'sufficient support for smooth tops'
@moira yeah. I've not had good luck with his profiles, but that might be from me having an original Ender 3 and not a Pro. Faster but failures showing up.
I actually plan on getting into more precise measuring and testing, so I picked up a new micrometer and hopefully better calipers.
@joncruz I have found that to use his profiles effectively you have to have your printer pretty tightly tuned. Otherwise yeah, that speed increase will get you into trouble.
But even fairly complicated large-block objects come out pretty well if you do that. Like this circuit board holder I printed. (Not my design.)
@joncruz I keep a lab notebook for my printer - I've done original research science, it kind of plays to my strengths - and one thing I like to do a lot is print grids of test objects.
So here I've got a set, the back three being the best overall, the front two being really the worst lol - but even going left to right in back, you're looking at 35% time reduction for prints.
You lose the smaller letters and the big letters get shallower, but still fine for many applications.
@joncruz This is not a very good filament, but also not a particularly _bad_ one, so it makes a good test material.
These were printed before my latest printer improvements so I'm sure there would be a general upgrade in quality at this point. But still.
Solarbird 
Jon A. Cruz