The difference in shrinkage between the denim and the pocket bag fabric creates this beautiful pattern on the inside edge of the front pocket.

#selfmadejeans #pocketbag #denim #shrinkage #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

A rare method for constructing the front pocket bags, which I've seen on 1920s Boss of the Road Copper King jeans.
The bottom of the pocket bag is continuous, without any seam along the bottom edge, which makes the bag very comfortable when putting your hand in it. The trade-off is that there needs to be a vertical seam along the inside edge of the bag, where there normally isn't.

#selfmadejeans #pocketbag #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Making of "Project Wo" 1870s brown duck pants (5)

As the left front pocket is intact on the Wo patent pants owned by Ricci (denim_seeker on IG), we were able to reconstruct the sewing of the front pocket and pocket bag quite easily.
As the right front pocket on Ricci's piece is missing, however, we weren't sure whether or not the pants originally had a watch pocket. Ricci consulted Mike Harris @denimbrotherhood who advised that early Wo patent pants usually didn't have watch pockets, and so we decided to make these without.
Another problem was what fabric to use for the pocket bags. After trying a few cotton fabrics and four different kinds of linen, we decided on a 100% linen fabric that looks and feels very similar to the original.
As everything on these pants, the construction is extremely simple. For example, there is no topstitching on the bottom seam of the pocket bag, and just a single line of stitches at the entrance of the pocket.

#cheangquanwo #1870s #wopatent #brownduck #linen #pocketbag #denimseeker #eurekajeans #eureka #handcraftedjeans #justahobby #notforsale

1910s Eureka waist overall -- pocket bag
The front pocket bags are made of fairly heavy twill fabric. The selvedge is used in the bottom seam, which means that the bag is cut with the lengthwise grain (warp) running horizontally, the opposite of the usual direction. The pocket bag fabric is non-sanforized and has actually shrunk more than the denim, causing some nice waves on the surface of the pocket facing.
I made these "Triple Ones" on April 5, 2002, as indicated on the stamp.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #pocketbag #selvedge #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale