On our annual pilgrimage to Brighton, Omar Khayyam is now a must to stop by. It has become one of those places where you go for a particular dish promising yourself each time to try something new and never doing that.

My go-to here is their liver — luxuriously soft on inside and crispy seared on the outside, perfectly seasoned, steak-like earthy, and slightly sweet. None of the bitterness, dry chew, or metallic aftertaste that puts people off.

Another must is their cucumber-radish salad Navruz. Good cucumber salad is not easy. Cucumbers either sit separately from the dressing or become floppy-soggy in a few moments once touched with salt. None of that here. Existing organically with sour cream, cucumbers remained firm and snappy like radishes they were paired with.

And meat skewers. Also like no other. Not sure which of the three was the best. Probably lamb ribs — tender, glistening with just a touch of fat. Although lamb meat and beef ones were not far behind.

We also took a shot at a full of broth piping hot crispy chebureck, tender tongue classicaly paired with horseradish, soup kharcho — delicious, rich but light, and crispy potatoes with fried mushrooms.

Trying to find Omar Khayyam’s tag, I stumbled on their story. Look — in the last picture — who visited them last night! To paraphrase a classic: of all the joints in all the boroughs of this food capital of the world he walks into this one…

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