Despite the solid session, it felt like a futile search for the Holy Grail—good waves but no barrels, no perfect wave.

“Damn, Jimmy. I was starting to freak out,” Matt replied, waiting on the beach.

“Did you catch a barrel?” Jimmy asked.

“No barrels but solid waves, I guess,” answered Matt.

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Scanning for Matt, Jimmy began to walk back to find his friend.

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Matt was not in sight, and worse, Jimmy couldn’t see the VW bus. He had drifted south with the current. He thought of surfing back, but it would take too long. He surfed toward the shore, then walked through the water to reach the beach.

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