Apparently it's not Gnome 50. It's Loupe. Or more specifically, Loupe forcing "Dark Mode" when I'm in "Light Mode (With CSS Overrides To Replace The Bright White With Mid Grey)".
GTK Inspector seems to indicate that the button is using a semi-transparent background colour (because of course "deal with the interaction between a widget and the colour of the background behind it" is a thing that you'd want to do?!) and so it's not playing nicely with mid-grey.
Looks like I'm spending more time fixing CSS again. Which I needed to do anyway, because Gimp 3 is already doing a whole bunch of janky stuff.
It's not even like I want much. Flat themes are a bit crap and trend-following, but I can live with it. Gnome now has accent colours, which is great. All I want is dark title bars and #cccccc window backgrounds (a bit like when openSUSE had the Sonar theme in 11.4) so that the whole desktop isn't eye-searingly bright (or that odd cream colour that they went through for a while)







