Parque Nacional Patagonia Trek, Chile
Our trek in the Park De Patagonia traversed from the northern Jeinimeni sector down to the town of Cochrane. This is a world-class, 97 km multi-day backpacking route. Often referred to as the Jeinimeni-Avilés Traverse, it typically takes 4 to 6 days to complete and offers a dramatic cross-section of Patagonian ecosystems—from alpine steppes and glacial lakes to deep valleys and dense lenga forests. We spent four nights on the trail and enjoyed every minute of it.
We travelled by air from Vancouver, through Mexico City, Santiago, Peurto Montt, then finally Balmaceda. It was a long haul, but we managed well with all flights on time. From Balmaceda we took a two hour taxi ride, stopping in Villa Cerro Castillo to stash some gear for later. We then hopped on a ferry at Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez for a two hour sailing to Chile Chico. Once in Chile Chico we walked 25 minutes across town to our hotel. Needless to say, we were fully exhausted by this time! Planes, taxis, and ferries, oh my!
Contents
- Route Map
- Day One: Into the Patagonian Wild
- Day 2: Avilés Valley to Valle Chacabuco
- Day 3: Down the Avilés Velley to Casa de Piedra
- Day 4: Ascent to Reserva Nacional Tamango
- Day 5: Onwards to Cochrane
- Trip Video
Route Map
From Lago Jeinimeni to Cochrane, 110 kilometers over five days.
Day One: Into the Patagonian Wild
We rested well overnight in Chile Chico, but there was no rest days to follow. Our plan was to start the Parque Nacional Patagonia trek the next day! We grabbed a two hour taxi to Lago Jeinimeni to hit the trail.
The journey began in the north at Lago Jeinimeni National Reserve, located about 65 km south of Chile Chico. The trailhead leaves from the ranger station at Lago Jeinemeni, where we checked in with the rangers and got oriented. Here we met some lovely Belgian’s that we would walk with for the next two days. Then, off we went, skirting the impossibly turquoise waters of the lake and neighboring Laguna Esmeralda. It was cool and unsettled weather and we even had some snow come down on this day.
The route is well marked has some good infrastructure like boardwalks and bridges over the larger rivers up to the Camping Raleigh site. Then we climbed steeply over Portezuelo La Gloria (Gloria Pass). From the top we had breathtaking, sweeping views of the aqua blue Lago Verde and the surrounding glacier-capped peaks from the mirador laguna verde.
Descending the pass we arrive into Valle Hermoso, aka Beautiful Valley – and it sure is! Here, the trail disappears into braided riverbeds marked by signposts. We had been taking our shoes off for each river crossing, but now realized that was fruitless. So we now marched through the water on the multiple cold, ankle-to-knee-deep river crossings. We came to the Valle Hermoso Hut that offered some shelter and good camping.
This was our first night camping in Chile. We were warned about rodents, and the risk of hantavirus that comes with their presence. We took precautions to be careful with food and hygiene as a result. We did not see any rodents this evening, but several birds of prey flew into camp in the evening, suggesting that they might be around. Our second night in Chile after much travel, we slept soundly.
Day 2: Avilés Valley to Valle Chacabuco
Continuing south, the route leaves the glacial valleys and follows the Avilés River toward the park’s central hub, Valle Chacabuco. This was one of my favourite days in Chile, we had outstanding weather. The light cast through the valley was exceptional. You could see endless and vast nature all around, from snow capped peaks, rugged mountains, sweeping valleys, rivers, trees, and a variety of mini ecosystems. Outstanding.
We camped midway down the valley and watched the sun trace across the mountain tops. It got quite cold after sundown and we escaped to our tents for another solid sleep.
Day 3: Down the Avilés Velley to Casa de Piedra
I woke to a Huemul Deer foraging outside our camp. These endangered deer have short legs & a stocky build, enabling them to live on rocky terrain & climb mountain passes with ease. They are one of the most elusive animals in Patagonia and became a Chilean National Natural Monument in 2006. They are currently under threat from changes in their natural habitat, and predation by the puma (source).
It was frosty this morning and we had an early start to warm up. Here we trekked through transitioning ecosystems, crossing the Avilés suspension bridge and descending into the sweeping Patagonian flatlands of Valle Chacabuco.
At Casa de Piedra we encountered our first guanacos. Incredible graceful and beautiful creatures herded together and enjoying feeding on the lush grasslands.
We decided not to camp here and weighed walking the 25km stretch of road into the Patagonia National Park Visitor Center located in Chile’s Chacabuco Valley. We learned of a bus that was running and hopped aboard to avoid the slog on the road. At the Visitor Center we attempted to join their nightly traditional Chilean feast, but sadly, they were all booked. We grabbed sandwiches in the gift shop and replenished our energy.
We bunkered down at the West Winds campsite catching up with a shower and wifi. This was a busy site, and someone even tried to enter my tent overnight, likely coming back from the feast with beer goggles. I shooed them away and slept soundly.
Day 4: Ascent to Reserva Nacional Tamango
Right out of the campsite we pick up the Lagunas Altas trail, a stunning route that ascends to alpine lagoons offering expansive views of the Northern Patagonian Ice Field and Mt. Tamanguito. The route connects over Paso Los Condores into the Reserva Nacional Tamango.
There are beautiful forests in this section and several lakes. We camp near Laguna Elefantita and it’s another outstanding sunset as the light dances across the grasslands.
Day 5: Onwards to Cochrane
Coldest night of the trip. I wake to my Nalgene water bottle frozen solid. The tent is encased in ice. We shuffle about for coffee waiting for the sun to creep over the tree line. At least we know we are sleeping in a warm bed tonight!
We round the lake as the trail descends steeply through magical lenga forests alongside the Cochrane River. We catch sight of the gorgeous Lago Cochrane shimmering in the morning light as kayakers set off for a day of adventure below. As the sun comes up it warms up significant and turns into a lovely hot day. The trail continues and becomes less interesting as we descend down to Cochrane.
In Cochrane we locate a hotel and a pizza spot. We enjoy Chilean poutine and two giant pizzas to celebrate our success on the first leg of the Patagonian adventure.
The next day we travel four hours by bus from Cochrane back to Villa Cerro Castillo to fetch the gear we dropped and check into a hotel. Gear is dried and washed and we eat more pizza. We have two nights rest before we begin the next trek in the Cerro Castillo National Park.
Trip Video
Our trek in the Park De Patagonia traversed from the northern Jeinimeni sector down to the town of Cochrane. This is a world-class, 97 km multi-day backpacking route. Often referred to as the Jeinimeni-Avilés Traverse, it typically takes 4 to 6 days to complete and offers a dramatic cross-section of Patagonian ecosystems—from alpine steppes and glacial lakes to deep valleys and dense lenga […]
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