I'm curious...do you use a stop bath when developing film? Feel free to boost for a larger sample size, but please don't feel obligated.

#FilmPhotography #DevelopYourOwn #AnalogPhotography #BelieveInFilm

Yes, with a water rinse before and/or after
16.4%
Yes, with no rinsing between chemicals
52.7%
I rinse a bit with water to halt development and go straight to the fixer
25.5%
I dump the dev and pour the fixer straight in like an absolute madlad
3.6%
I convert the developer in the tank to fixer with psychic power and sheer force of will
1.8%
Poll ended at .

@kaiser_franz

i've just been taught by someone else, who just goes from one chemical to another with no rinse, but he does use stop bath

there is a ten minute final rinse (4 changes) in his method, which is also using a jobo

so far i've been pleased with the results.
he's done 100s maybe 1000s, ive done 5

@rustoleumlove Do you happen to know if he reuses the stop bath from roll to roll, and how long his fixer lasts? I just rinse after the developer, and then pour the fixer in. I generally get through about 65-70 rolls before I mix up new fixer, fixing for 5 mins each time, whether it's the first or the last roll.

I'm still relatively new at this, and not asserting that this is the "right" way, but it did make me curious what others do!

@kaiser_franz @rustoleumlove I'm not sure what your volume of fixer you are mixing is, but 65-70 rolls is an awful lot for say 1lt of fix. I generally get around 12-15. I change it once the total fix time goes > 6 min (given total fix time as twice the time to clear, so if clear time for a regular non-tgrain film goes > 3 min). I use the zone image eco-fix, but capacity wise, ilford rapid fix was very similar.
@tmcfarlane @kaiser_franz @rustoleumlove I also get around 12-15 rolls per liter of fixer. I trust hypo-check.

@tomnorthfilm @tmcfarlane @rustoleumlove I use Kodafix which mixes a gallon at a time. (~3.8 L for the civilized world) I have a small bottle of hypo-check, but I've noticed that the drops will go cloudy LONG before the fixer stops fixing well (or a least what appears to be fixed well, no fog/cloudiness, etc.). I should probably start doing more snip tests to actually monitor the timing, but I generally just put an โ€œX" on the bottle every time I fix a roll of 135, a roll of 120, or 4 sheets of 4x5 and once I'm at 60-70 โ€œXโ€ marks I start over. And I fix for 5 minutes each time whether it's the first roll or the last.

I wonder if I'm truly not having issues or if there's some type of issue that I don't know is happeningโ€ฆ

@kaiser_franz @tomnorthfilm @rustoleumlove the thing to watch is that , just because it's clear doesn't mean it's fixed. The advise I follow is 2x clearing time. So I take the lid off after a minute. If it's clear I got for 2m, if not I leave it in with occasional dunking to agitate,once clear I double that time. 6m total time is my max.
One hiccup is tgrain films, they are much harsher on fix, and take longer. I just avoid them ๐Ÿ˜ƒ
@tmcfarlane @tomnorthfilm @rustoleumlove What can/should I look out for to know that film that is cleared isnโ€™t fixed?
@kaiser_franz @tomnorthfilm @rustoleumlove after a while the negative can develop fog. Can be a year or so, or longer. I think if you catch it earlier you can just re-fix and wash.