Empire of Light. A film with a lukewarm reception and certainly one which was missold - but also one that's underrated in my view.
The first half drags and feels no better than quite good. But once you reach the 65 minute mark it turns around. Provided you've cottoned onto what the film actually is about.
Romance and racism are secondary. "The magic of the cinema" (which is more about art in general) is tertiary. Most middling/negative reviews don't get this.