MakersHourQuestionsQ3: Did you, would you, share your project plan for others to make? How would you feel knowing someone copied, or was influenced by, your work (with credit)?
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diyelectromusic@MakersHour A3 I always do, and people have - and that is great :)
The Oracle WokStation@MakersHour I do! The code for The Staff code is on gitHub, and you can print The Fuse from #makerworld #makersHour https://makerworld.com/models/2170165
The Fuse - a lamp - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by WokStation. The Fuse is a lamp I created entirely in FreeCAD, inspired by the fuses found inside UK mains plugs, and the copper clamps that hold them in place. At its heart is a Bambu 20cm COB LED string and a really chunky on/off switch! A lot of revisions, part changes and iterations were involved in bringing this to a final piece, and one heck of a lot of coffee. I used BL Metal PLA, Dark Copper and Dark Iron, as well as BL PLA Silk+ Titan silver and SUNLU PLA+ silk shiny copper filaments for the main print. I printed a 200x50mm cylinder while doing part fitting, and it's actually a pretty good diffuser. I'm including it for those that can't get an acrylic tube, or would rather print their own from a translucent filament. I printed it in BL PLA white. ASSEMBLYAs well as the parts in the BOM listed below, you will need:-Soldering Iron & solder-Hot Glue Gun-Sewing needle and thread-Superglue or other hard plastic glue - beware vapours damaging the acrylic tube! Get some non-fogging glue or use epoxy resin!-Pliers-Two to four M3 bolts with a length between 12mm & 20mm-One terminal block You'll definitely want to read through this before you begin! Solder cables to the COB LED string, they need to be approximately 20cm long. Solder cables to the USB breakout, they need to be about 8cm long. Test the COB LED string after soldering to ensure it's still ok. Thread the needle and tie the loose end to the end of the COB string, as close to the end as you can get it. Try and loop it round twice and pull it tight enough to slightly bite into the silicone. Cut the tail from the knot. Lay the thread and COB string out straight and put some superglue on the knot. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT as it holds the COB taught in the lamp. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly! Prepare the switch by bending the legs outwards and upwards. Partially unscrew the terminals. Mount the COB LED inside one of the nozzles; from the back of the nozzle, insert the needle and pull it and the thread through, followed by the COB LED. The circuit board may need to be rotated slightly to fit snugly inside. Once it's fully in, thoroughly secure it with hot glue.Next, put it on the acrylic tube; drop the sewing needle inside and let the thread and COB string follow it. Place the nozzle atop the acrylic tube and glue it in place; set the nozzle slightly off-centre, then add glue to the end of the acrylic tube in three spots. Gently lift the nozzle and place it on the tube, applying pressure until it takes.Lay the tube on it's side and thread the needle through the front of the next nozzle. Guide the nozzle into place at the end of the tube, and pull the COB through the end of the nozzle - it should intrude by a few millimetres, hiding your knot. This is the trickiest part of the assembly!You need to pull the cotton so the COB string is taught between the nozzles. Pull it to the side and hold it in place with your finger so you don't lose tension. Now you need to put some hot glue in to hold the COB and the cotton in place! Be careful not to let it flow through the nozzle into the tube! Maintain tension until the glue cools. Now cross the thread over the cooled glue and add a dab more to hold it there. Cut thread once the glue is totally cooled.Next you glue the nozzle into place by moving it slightly aside so you can add glue to the end of the pipe like before, then slide the nozzle back into place. You won't be able to move it very far. It's much easier from here! Assemble the legs! Slide an end cap into the clamp on a leg as shown on the right, and align the square holes. Take a peg and add glue to the underside of the wings. Push it into the square hole. It's a tight fit, so you might want to do a dry run first. Repeat for the second leg. Thread the wires from the COB string into a leg (tip: blutack them together for this) so they poke from the bottom hole. The inside is angled to encourage the wires to turn the corner more easily.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inside lip of the end cap and then seat the acrylic tube assembly into the cap - you may need to be firm! Hold it in place while the glue sets. Fit the leg/tube assembly onto the enclosure by sliding it into the slot and securing with an M3 bolt. You may need to use pliers to turn it, there's no room for a hex key.Add some (non fogging!) glue to the inner lip of the other end cap and slide it into place as shown, and secure with another M3 bolt. Slide the USB breakout into the slot and secure it with plenty of hot glue. Add some to the seams between the legs and the enclosure for added security. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the USB breakout to one of the pins on the switch. No solder is needed, you just secure it with a screwdriver. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the COB string to the other terminal on the switch.Slot the switch into the hole and secure with a washer and nut. Don't forget to add the ON/OFF marker!Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the USB to the terminal block. Connect the NEGATIVE wire from the COB string to the other side of the terminal block. CHECK AND RECHECK YOUR WIRING. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CONNECTED THE TWO POSITIVES TO THE SWITCH AND THE TWO NEGATIVES TO THE TERMINAL BLOCK. CHECK FOR SHORTS WITH A MULTIMETER. You can plug it in and turn it on now. Make sure it works to your satisfaction. When you're happy, secure the terminal block to the enclosure roof with hot glue. Secure any slack with hot glue. Add hot glue to where the wires are soldered, and to where they are screwed to the switch. This adds mechanical strength to the connections. Line the inner lip of the enclosure with strong (non fogging) glue. Add the floor so the feet point outward. Apply pressure, especially near the switch, the the edges of the floor to secure it tightly. Then, stand it up - the weight of the lamp will finish the job, but make sure it's dry before you move it. Now if everything went well, you have your very own Fuse lamp! This build has been a lot of fun and I'm really pleased with the final result! I hope you like it as much as I do!
QuixoticgeekA3 some projects I would be happy to publish a design if I had one, for the kerfing plane mentioned in A1, because it's so closely inspired by a commercial product from an independent maker, I don't think it's ethical to make plans available to others.
Oh, and you can get some of my designs as stl files over on printables.
AndyQ3: Did you, would you, share your project plan for others to make? How would you feel knowing someone copied, or was influenced by, your work (with credit)?
A3: Erm, your question implies I had a plan!
Regardless, if someone wants to use any of my creations as any form of influence, go for it!
The devil on my shoulder is currently wondering ‘who on earth would do that?’ but we all have our demons!
Ted@Andy
Yes, that is another thing about many projects - there are certainly many times there is barely any plan beyond a vague goal.
And also between trials and failures on some things I'm not sure I can even say for certain what it is that I did which worked.
Maaike@MakersHour i usually blog about my makes, sharing how i did it if it's something I think might not be obvious. If someone would get inspired, by something I made, I would only be happy to be able to share the joy of making stuff yourself.
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Sue ArcherQ3: Did you, would you, share your project plan for others to make? How would you feel knowing someone copied, or was influenced by, your work (with credit)?
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I share my work as I go along, and if I inspire anyone else to have a go, I'm delighted!
Andrew Lewis Workshop@MakersHour a3: I did. I even got invited to an interview with The Mill (visual effects company) in London, which made some of my colleagues very jealous. I resurrected the project a few times, but never really had the time to stay on top of it and other people weren't really interested in helping, so it just faded to obscurity over the years. #makersHour
Ropey@MakersHour A3 #MakersHour ha no why would anyone want to fall apart and lose their place in the world. No I would be thrilled though if my project ultimately managed to reach others and maybe provided a bit of company and made them felt less alone in their experience. If it informed people about the impact and support for thyroid issues then excellent. It's so much more than people think but on the whole I think may endocrinologists veer towards other areas of the field
Dr Footleg (he/him)@MakersHour A3: I share my code and general things I design for 3D printing where I am building on projects others have shared. I try to share technical knowledge via my blog when I work out how do do something that I could not find a clear guide to online. #MakersHour
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Q3: sharing plans?
A3: I generally do not share plans. Though it is not that I want to keep such things guarded. Rather I'm too busy to take the time to make nice plans to share.
I'd be happy to be copied with credit with most of what I do. I would not like to be copied without credit.
Inspiration I'd be generally ok with no credit, though I'd be really excited if I were.
I often try to credit inspiration, but it's harder to do so because I often can't remember.
Morgan ⚧️@MakersHour I frequently try to and give up 😅 bc a lot of my projects are mostly planned in my head, so I'll try to write it out later but at that point it's even more tedious
But if someone credited my project as an inspiration for theirs, I'd be very happy about that and gleefully share links to their work too
But if someone credited my project as an inspiration for theirs, I'd be very happy about that and gleefully share links to their work too
Jeff Miller (orange hatband)@MakersHour Q3: Did you, would you, share your project plan for others to make? How would you feel knowing someone copied, or was influenced by, your work (with credit)?
A3. Given my answer to Q2, I would probably be flattered if someone adapted or derived work from my own derivations.
My source and notes for PixieReport are publicly available. I was surprised that no one else, as far as I know, had already tried to revive the Weatherpixie.