Sini TuuliaApr 11, 2025

Have been slowly working on the yet another linen shirt that I mostly started to keep my hands busy. Making it up from many small pieces (the sleeves are the largest continuous piece) let me eke it out of just one metre of fabric, and then I also put some lace on it. It's a shape that looks rather silly when it's not part of an ensemble, but here we are.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

Show threadSini TuuliaApr 11, 2025
I've made a black blouse with short sleeves with this pattern before, so it was pretty easy to cut out and make... Just the sleeve is a new draft, and we'll see if it works out. You'd assume it would, but it's from one of the old tomes (Edwardian pattern drafting book) and I couldn't be bothered to make a mock up of it, so now it's going on this shirt to try it out!
Show threadSini Tuulia
Trying to fit the untested sleeve onto the arm's eye and becoming aware of there being quite a bit to gather. I wasn't aware I was making a puffed sleeve, which is not usually a problem since I love puffed sleeves, but this one might be more a result of some borked maths more than anything, so we'll see...
The non-gathered bit that goes into the scoop of the underarm, though? Almost exactly the right shape just according to the old manual, remarkable.
Apr 11, 2025 at 11:44amWeb
Show threadSini TuuliaApr 11, 2025

Oh, and just in case you're curious, I'm trying out the shirt waist sleeve on this page, the book is from 1909 and only slightly a hassle to interpret. The two part sleeve worked out pretty well, it's what I used for the Cinnamon Linen Jacket and would have been quite good if I hadn't messed up the back of it a little bit!

https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/56/mode/2up

#OldManuals #Sewing #PatternDrafting

The American system of dressmaking : Merwin, Pearl : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

6 p. l., [15]-444 p. 24 cm

Internet Archive
Show threadElena ``of Valhalla''Apr 11, 2025

@sinituulia uh, I think that's the manual I used for my old shirtwaist pattern! I don't remember if I changed the sleeve however, or decided that the original excessive amount was excessive enough :D

(I may try to check later)

Show threadSini TuuliaApr 11, 2025
@valhalla The fullness did settle quite nicely and without any fuss, but it was certainly a bit surprising to realise how big it was after all. 😄 I've completely lost idea of what a narrow fitted sleeve pattern even looks like, so I didn't notice!