Have been doing little slow tasks about the #1890sCheckJacket and have just now realised I want to do them differently, and need to undo almost everything I've done today. Ah well, should be a tiny bit easier to do again since I already know what works, I guess?
#Sewing
The thing is that the very thick and voluminous sleeve seam allowance can either be stuffed inside the sleeve, which will make the sleeve head kick straight up, and do a really dramatic and big sleeve head... But also would need a bunch of sleeve stuffing and support to make it sort of round off into the arm.
On the other hand, if you lay it against the bodice instead, the seam allowance won't fight you, and the sleeve will sort of... lay flatter and softer, and not need any more support than the sleeve lining and arm inside it will give. This is how I generally like them, too.
But also making the sleeve seam allowance lay flat and behave inside the bodice and lining? Well, you need to catch stitch it down, ideally, and you need to tack on the sleeve lining onto it, before encasing it with the bodice lining.
Guess who just tacked all the layers onto the bodice lining instead? 😅 I suppose I can just do a fitting, see if any of the lining pulls, and if the cuffs are the correct length, before I take it off again so I can do it the other way around.