Beau(dacious)After a couple of days of dialing in I think I can call that a good first layer for PETG. I can tell the bed levelling isn't as consistent as it I'd like but it's still manual until I can get this new X carriage and tool head printed.
Terrence the Fox@hooskworks What printer you running?
@terrencefoxfur It was an Anycubic Mega S when it started out but i've given it new firmware, new stepper drivers, a real E3D Titan, and a real E3D V6 hot end (with titanium head break, plated copper heater block and Nozzle X nozzle). It's still entry level parts but the nicer end of entry level. I'm trying to add better part cooling and a bed levelling probe after which I'll probably call it done and run it until it mechanically wears out.
Phil M0OFX@hooskworks @terrencefoxfur I can definitely recommend the BLTouch bed levelling, that was a game changer on my Ender 5 Pro. It's great for doing the initial bed alignment too - check the alignment graph and twiddle the screws. After that, set it and forget it.
@philpem @hooskworks Def recommend the BLTouch mod. Firmware - marlin / TH3D based firmware? There's a few mods that might be worth poking to avoid the screws for alignment once you have done the BLTouch, such as the nyloc and tube mods which basically fix the bed more like the Prusa's.
@terrencefoxfur @philpem Ah, yes, I've got a set of the Creality bed standoffs to replace the springs too. It's still Marlin based for now but I'm weighing up my own build of Marlin so I can use the bed probe for the Z end stop and tramming the gantry or going to Klipper which the main board can just about handle.
@hooskworks @philpem I found the Creality board on my Ender crap, and swapped them out for SKR one's. Then ended up contributing to the TH3D firmware 😂 Not looked at the specs on the Mega, but expect its probably way better than my old Ender tbh, but yeah, custom firmware build's are the way to go once you get to that point.
@terrencefoxfur @philpem They're broadly comparable if it's a Trigorilla + 2209s Vs the silent ender 3 main board... 8-bit Mega2560 based so good for real time control but not heavy maths. One of the SKRminis is what I've looked at but I'm not sure it's worth it when the steppers could do with replacing for higher resolution ones at the same time. I may as well save the cash a build a Rat Rig or grab a used Prusa MK4 + MMU.
@hooskworks @philpem Yeah, I'd need to check what I threw in my Ender 3, but if I recall it was an SKR Mini but that was a year or so ago now. Was a BIG improvement in quality from the standard board. But yup, if you are looking to have options, the Prusa Mk4 + MMU is a GOOD option - I do firmware contribs for them too (my main is a Mk3s with MMU lol).
@terrencefoxfur @philpem oh neat! Have you got the MMU2 or 3 and how do you find it?
@hooskworks @philpem MMU2. And a ROYAL PITA. Removed the cutting blade, redid the firmware for calibration and its a 1000x better, but out of the box it was flaky as hell. The biggest problem now is actually a hardware power issue I need to fix. The latest firmware is not good for the MMU2 & 3 but it's still early days.