What smart wall switches are you using?
What smart wall switches are you using?
You mean the Lutron Caseta ones right?
Yea I do notice the flickering in one of my rooms. They do sell a capacitor to solve the issue Lutron LUT-MLC a.co/d/eXWMCdY
I haven’t bothered with it since the room with the flickering is my server room.
There’s a new line of Caseta switches which actually look good and are traditional.
Can’t be bothered to replace mine and barely use them anyway. Just use HA and automations for the most part
circuitdigest.com/…/what-is-tasmota-and-how-to-us…
Tasmota is a very clever open-source custom firmware that runs on any smart home device, which uses the ESP Wi-Fi chip. It provides local control of the smart devices through MQTT, HTTP, Serial, or WEB UI.
I just learned about it and now I’m really interested in it as well
In this tutorial we are going to discuss about what Tasmota is, how does it work and what it can do for you? Other than this, we are also going to flash Tasmota firmware on ESP-01 and then control an LED and read DHT11 sensor data using it.
It’s pretty awesome, actually. Most stuff in my house is gear that’s been re-flashed to Tasmota, and for a decent period of time the “CE Smart” (plugs , outlets, dimmers, bulbs) branded stuff used Tuya chips which were pretty easy to flash. Costco sold these, but the guts have changed over time.
The older Tuya based stuff can be flashed OTA to Tasmota using a raspberry Pi and a special app, but meant of the newer ones use a different chipset that is no longer compatible (or at least last time I gave it a shot). Much newer stuff seems to have crappy realtek chips that won’t take Tasmota, though I haven’t picked up anything recently. Devices that still use an ESP82xx chipset were also flashable by serial connection soldered to the right leads (RX,TX,3.3v, ground and NO AC power).
About a year ago, HomeAssistant stopped working with straight MQTT based Tasmota after a certain version. Thankfully, there’s actually a native Tasmota plugin now that actually works better for hardware running that particular variety of open-source firmware, and it’s actually become a bit easier to use.
If anyone snags a compatible “CE Smart” dimmer and manages to flash it, I’ve still got a functional template and the command that makes it work nicely in dimmer mode.
The ‘platform’ for the FEIT ones at costco are really well built. They make the Insteon units look like they were a one off hobby project. That’s the part that has the power circuitry, screw terminals, etc. The wifi module used to be ESP based but they switched about a year ago to a newer BK723 chip, these can be reflashed with a ‘OpenBeken’, which is a newer project that has similar functionality to Tasmota but for these newer chips.
The only downside I’ve seen with these is OpenBeken is not as mature and the units ‘hang’ now and then requiring a power cycle (like 2-4 weeks). I have some of the older ESP based units that are otherwise identical and they never hang, this has been getting better with upgrades so likely will eventually be fixed.
If you are OK with soldering you can buy the ESP controller modules on Amazon for about $1 each and just replace them and run stock Tasmota (you have to unsolder the module to reflash it either way, so its not a big deal to just put a different one on). The module pinout and electrical interface are identical.
YoSmart/YoLink also has a smart dimmer for $30. Those use a 900Mhz frequency to communicate and the hubs are usually $25 or they add about $10 ina a bundle.
The normal Hubs have Ethernet. The “voice” hubs are wifi only (to connect to your network, still 900MHz to talk to their devices).
I initially started using them because they were cheaper than Z-Wave and the smaller sensors (leak, door/window, temp, etc) use normal AAA batteries.
Up voted for this. I have a bunch of Yolink products. It all works seamlessly. I’ve got motion lights setup. I have my bathroom exhaust fan set to turn on at a specific humidity level. I’ve got their door locks, garage door opener. Hell, I’ve got the float switch set to tell me when my dogs need more water.
They have so many products and they all work together very well. It truly feels like a smart home now and it’s all the same brand so I don’t have to worry about compatibility problems or using a third party software. I do have them linked to home assistant for the few things I have from other brands. But I can’t reccomend Yolink enough
I use the 4 button Philips hue dimmers. Mostly mostly because I already had some from before I started using home assistant, and then because it’s easier to add more or replace when needed. All reconfigured in node-red, all behave the same:
I have been looking at getting these from EcoBright, anyone got any experience with them?
I’m in the UK and using Zigbee dimmer modules from Samotech, which match the style of traditional dumb dimmer switches in my country. There are similar models available from Candeo and others.
I’ve also been experimenting recently with a Shelly Dimmer2 module.
I just ripped out my insteon system and replaced it with Caseta. I wanted the “device-to-device” response speed.
It doesn’t work unless you want those MadKatz looking remotes on your wall. The two button remotes send all linked devices to full power, so I process them in Home Assistant. Home assistant is fast enough to process the commands, but the lutton protocol doesn’t have any sort of acknowledgement on the wireless side, it just keeps on blasting for 1.4 seconds. Good for reliability, awful for latency… So for 1.4 seconds after an action, the hub waits for the first device to stop transmitting before it sends commands to the rest of the devices.
I’m going to try some “scene” remotes and maybe get it to be acceptably quick but there are still limitations.
ZigBee is so good, they made thread. Z-wave is so good, there are 4 versions. Matter over thread is what I wanted but that’s vaporware for now. Considering what I know now, I would probably have gone with esphome or tasmota dimmers. I was worried about them mucking up my wifi, but they’re the only things I have on 2.4 and the scene controllers and garage controllers have been solid.