Today was my first physio appointment to rehab my finger after my partial pulley rupture.

It was super interesting, we basically talked the whole session about my training habits, looked at footage of me climbing to identify if there's movement patterns to correct to lessen the risk of injury in the future. I was super impressed with the level of care and attention to detail that I was given, it's not something I would have expected for a very average climber like myself (in several instances I was like "?? this feels like high level coaching ?? i'm being treated like a serious athlete wtf 😂" ).

Turns out I slightly rotate my fingers + I don't always engage my shoulders as much as I should which accentuates that finger rotation, putting unbalanced biomecanical constraints on one side of the tendon/pulley (if i understood everything correctly).

This plus my habit of crimping everything (even volumes as it turns out 😬 ), favoring crimpy/overhang boulders, and the fact that I simply climbed too much and at too high of an intensity in the spring, and bang, no wonder my pulley cried for help.

Next time I'll be given a list of rehab exercises (not only for the finger, but also for my shoulders !), plus stuff to do during my warmup.

#climbing #bouldering