Taiwanese restaurant pushes to reinstate banned stinky tofu in Los Angeles – VnExpress [2026-04-07] - sh.itjust.works
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/45589550
[https://lemmy.ml/post/45589550] > Critical support for [checks notes] Taiwanese
diasporoids. Food is serious business. I was raised on copious amounts of bleu
cheese and stinky tofu. All varieties are awesome. This is fining people for
being #delicious & you would never treat Fr*nch “people” like this, #injustice
#miscarriage > > ::: spoiler Expand article > > A Los Angeles restaurant, which
had been fined over stinky tofu complaints, is seeking public support to restore
the pungent dish, arguing its return is vital for preserving cultural diversity.
> > Stinky tofu is no longer served at Golden Leaf in San Gabriel but the owner
David Liao and his family are working to reinstate the dish, widely enjoyed
across mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan for its distinctive smell, according
to Tribune News Service. > > | Golden Leaf restaurant in Los Angeles, U.S. Photo
by Google Maps/Lucky Chuck
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| > | Golden Leaf restaurant in Los Angeles, U.S. Photo by Google Maps/Lucky
Chuck | > > “The scene of stinky tofu in Taiwanese night markets is an
invitation to community and tradition,” owner David Liao said, adding that the
dish is “a cherished taste of home and a source of cultural pride.” > > Across
the San Gabriel Valley, several restaurants continue to offer the dish,
typically deep-frying tofu cubes to create a crispy exterior and a porous,
sponge-like interior. Its flavor and scent can vary from mild to intensely
pungent, often compared to strong blue cheese or well-fermented kimchi. > > For
three years, stinky tofu was Golden Leaf’s signature item until a neighbour
objected to the smell. In the autumn of 2017, a resident living north of the
restaurant began lodging complaints. > > “She said she could smell the stinky
tofu, but we and other customers couldn’t smell it,” said Liao, whose parents
opened Golden Leaf in 2014. > > Puzzled by the claims, the family canvassed
nearby residential streets and neighboring businesses, asking whether anyone
else could detect the odor. > > “If our commercial neighbors complained to us
that it’s affecting their business, then we would understand,” Liao said. “But
no one ever has.” > > Despite this, inspections by the health department, fire
department and a city official followed. Liao said he was ultimately instructed
to either control the smell or stop selling the dish. > > Although Golden Leaf’s
menu includes a variety of Taiwanese staples, stinky tofu generated between 10%
and 20% of total revenue, making it difficult for the family to discontinue. > >
The restaurant initially continued selling the dish as complaints persisted. In
September 2017, city authorities issued a violation notice citing a breach of
municipal code, with potential fines of up to US$1,200. Liao’s parents
subsequently removed stinky tofu from the menu, > > Stinky tofu’s odor is
central to its appeal for enthusiasts. The dish is typically produced by
fermenting tofu in a brine with vegetables such as amaranth greens over days,
weeks or months. It remains a staple of Taiwan’s night markets. > > | Stinky
tofu. Photo by Pixabay/focusonpc
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| > | Stinky tofu. Photo by Pixabay/focusonpc | > > Los Angeles County hosts the
largest Taiwanese population in the United States. “Keeping this unofficial
national dish alive is crucial,” Liao said. “For our customers, this isn’t just
another menu item; it’s a connection to their roots.” > > In 2025, Liao
attempted to reintroduce the dish through a newsletter announcing limited weekly
releases. However, complaints resumed, and he said repeated calls from the same
neighbor disrupted the restaurant’s phone line. > > Within three months, the
city issued a second formal violation notice. > > “The city’s municipal code
includes provisions related to odor impacts,” writes David Sanchez, San
Gabriel’s community development director, in an email. “When an odor extends
beyond a property and creates discomfort for others, it may be considered a
violation and addressed accordingly.” > > Food writer Clarissa Wei said
perceptions of stinky tofu vary widely. “Internationally, and for outsiders,
stinky tofu often gets framed as a novelty or even a dare,” she said. “But in
Taiwan, and across many parts of Asia, it’s just another comfort food.” > >
Golden Leaf continued serving the dish until November 2025, accruing multiple
citations. Liao said he has paid more than $1,000 in fines. > > A Change.org
[http://Change.org] petition launched last summer calling for support to
continue selling stinky tofu in San Gabriel has gathered more than 1,000
signatures, with supporters framing the issue as one of cultural inclusion. > >
“This ban isn’t about public health or quality of life; it’s about whose culture
is allowed to exist in public,” one comment reads. > > “I think it’s
ridiculous,” said Thomas Purscelley, the owner of the nearby Roxy’s Liquor and
Mini-Mart, as cited by CBS News. > > “David has done a really great job, him and
his team, preventing this smell coming out and being a nuisance. I’m right next
door. We have never smelled the stinky tofu. I didn’t even know he was smelling
it.” > > Wei compares stinky tofu to other pungent foods such as natto, kimchi
and aged fish, noting that cultural misunderstanding can shape perceptions. > >
“When foods are labeled obnoxious or adverse, it risks flattening that
diversity,” she writes. “Stinky tofu gets a bad rap largely because people, both
abroad and even within Taiwan, don’t fully understand how it’s made.” > > San
Gabriel city council member John Wu said the dispute centers on odor control
rather than cultural differences, confirming the city has received multiple
complaints. He suggests improved filtration could resolve the issue. > > “We
don’t stop people from selling dishes because they are smelly, but they should
keep the smells inside the unit,” Wu said. > > “It’s subjective, and people feel
differently about different smells. We can check noise levels at a business, but
we don’t have a device that detects how much something smells.” > > Wu cited a
nearby coffee shop that resolved similar complaints after installing a
filtration system. > > “This has nothing to do with any cultural things, but
it’s more like a food smell control issue,” Wu said. "We have many restaurants
selling stinky tofu, but this is so far the only restaurant where we have those
complaints from residents. > > Other local establishments,
[https://e.vnexpress.net/news/business/companies/no_script_;] including Dong
Ting Xian and Yung Ho Cafe, continue to serve stinky tofu. Wu noted that Golden
Leaf’s proximity to residential areas may contribute to the issue. > >
Relocation is not feasible for the restaurant. Liao has explored installing a
filtration system or a ventless fryer, estimating costs of $20,000 to $50,000
for the fryer and about $100,000 for filtration, excluding permits. > > “With
all these options, I was looking for a guarantee,” Liao said. “We were willing
to work with the city, but they couldn’t put anything in writing, and we don’t
have the money to just invest and see if it works.” > > Wu said no such
guarantee can be provided.’ “I truly hope he can start selling the dish again,”
he said. “We hope the money he spends on a filtration machine will be worth it
for him, but we can only offer that this might be a good solution and hope he
gets a good result.” >