Baume Before Mercier

The recently-announced sale of Baume & Mercier by Richemont to Italian distributor Damiani Group spurred me to research the history of that famous brand. Just as there was a LeCoultre before Jaeger, an Audemars before Piguet, and a Vacheron before Constantin, there was a Baume before Mercier. These unions often tell a story of greater transitions in the industry rather than simply consolidation of corporate control. And the story of the Baume family of Les Bois and London is particularly illuminating.

Note: Baume & Mercier is an independent company founded in 1918 by William Baume. This Geneva-based retail and manufacturing company has no real connection to the historic company founded by his great grandfather, Louis-Joseph Baume, with whom we shall begin. His company, known as Frères Baume, was primarily focused on British market through a related company, Baume & Co of London. Even though William Baume worked for these family firms, Baume & Mercier was entirely independent and was locked out of the British market by Baume & Co for most of the 20th century.

The Baume Family of Les Bois

Louis-Joseph Baume (1783-1867) and his wife Agnès née Froidevaux (1786-1850) lived in the remote village of Les Bois, a French-speaking area along the current national border which was annexed into the German-dominated Canton of Berne in 1815. Baume was a farmer like most of his neighbors, but starting in 1834 he also produced watches at a home-based workshop. He would deliver these to La Chaux-de-Fonds, a rising center of watchmaking located an easy 2-hour walk southeast on the Jura plateau. He appears to have been found bankrupt in 1835. The Baume family lost their first five children, four of whom died as young children in 1816. But three daughters and four sons born later survived.

Victor Baume (1817-1887) and his brother Célestin Baume (1819-1880) organized a watchmaking company as “Baume frères” as soon as they reached the age of maturity in 18401. In 1848, when the Indicateur Davoine directory first includes Les Bois, it shows “Baume frères, fabricans d’horlogerie.” This listing also includes their brother, watchmaker Auguste Baume (1820-1859), and a gilding operation also called Baume frères perhaps run with their youngest brother, Eugène Baume (1822-1875).

Their father’s bankruptcy likely kept him from being officially involved, but he certainly continued to contribute to the efforts of his young sons. He died in 1867, having seen his sons build a flourishing watchmaking business, marry, and have children of their own.

Although the original establishment of the company is murky2, it is clear that the Baume family was at the center of watchmaking in Les Bois by the 1840s. Production of components was distributed across the region, with small workshops contributing individual components that were brought together as semi-finished watches to be disassembled, finished, adjusted, and reassembled for sale. The Baume brothers acted as wholesalers, gathering these watches for sale in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Neuchâtel. But the ambitious young men saw greater opportunity in the trade, leaving the village and even the country to make that happen.

An Early and Unusual Vertical Strategy

The hallmark of industrialized watchmaking is vertical integration: Starting in the late 19th century, manufactures like Longines, Omega, and Zénith attempted to consolidate production of as many components as possible under their control, either under the same roof or by purchasing supplier factories. This was a repudiation of the etablisseur tradition, which collected components produced by thousands of tiny workshops to produce a finished watch. Vertical integration was incredibly controversial, pitting traditional watchmaking fathers against their industrialist sons and even whole cities like Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds against upstarts like Bienne and Grenchen. This was a wholesale mindset shift that enabled 20th century industrial watchmaking.

This is why the Baume brothers are so interesting: They built a different kind of integrated company that embraced the workshop tradition while ensuring control and quality. And it connected rural Les Bois to La Chaux-de-Fonds, Geneva, and London! There are very few examples of such a far-reaching watchmaking enterprise, and certainly none this early.

The idea was straightforward but it was incredibly challenging. Each of the four Baume brothers established his own business focused on a key aspect of watchmaking:

• Since he was the oldest son, Victor Baume remained in Les Bois to run the company and source raw components from the workshops of the Jura
• Célestin Baume moved to England, focused on watch finishing and sales, leveraging the skilled watchmakers in Clerkenwell north of London
• Auguste Baume specialized in gilding movements and producing dials, first in Les Bois but soon moving to La Chaux-de-Fonds
• Eugène Baume ran a finishing and sales operation in Geneva, securing the finest watchmaking skills and commercial opportunities there

This dispersed watchmaking enterprise was active by the 1850s, when the Baume brothers were still under 40. Their presence in London and Geneva gave them an incredible understanding of the market, which was widely misunderstood by parochial competitors in the Vallée de Joux, Le Locle, and La Chaux-de-Fonds. And their effective use of the finest watchmakers in these cities allowed them to exploit the inexpensive and rough components produced in the Swiss Jura.

Focus on the English Market

The young Baume brothers faced a significant decision in the 1840s: Would they produce watches in the thinner French style or the robust English genre? Given that their home in the Swiss Jura was firmly in the French sphere of influence (harboring both Huguenots and French Catholics alongside revolutionaries opposed to German Berne) one would think it a simple choice. And since Les Bois was among the first Swiss firms to adopt the cylinder escapement and Lépine ebauche, their watches were better suited for the French market. But Victor Baume opted instead to build a bridge between Les Bois and London, and 25 year old Célestin Baume departed for London in 1844.

Baume settled in Clerkenwell, which was a center for watchmakers in the 1850s. As was the case everywhere before the industrial revolution, British watchmakers worked in small workshops, performing specialized tasks to produce finished watches. But the watchmakers of Clerkenwell were far more skilled than their Swiss counterparts at this time, and they knew exactly what British buyers wanted. Célestin Baume quickly built a network of specialists that could turn the rough components of the Jura into high-quality English style watches.

The Baume brothers innovated beyond the classic English watch design, but always kept close enough to keep from alienating customers. The firm created the first watch to use the 3/4 plate design typical in Germany with their modern cylinder escapement. And as early as 1851 they created the first so-called “flat glass” cases, with a tall polished bezel housing a flat glass crystal. These soon became popular with English gentlemen and were widely copied.

The watches produced by the Baume brothers were in strong demand in London and the British Empire. It was said that wholesalers would descend on the Clerkenwell office as soon as a new batch was ready, carrying them throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland. Baume even had distributors carrying their watches to Australia and New Zealand as well as British ports in Asia.

As early as 1852 Célestin Baume had partnered in a retail operation located along the fashionable street of Hatton Garden. Baume & Lezard remained in operation until 1872, exposing the company’s products to buyers from around the British Empire. The company chose the block of buildings behind the Union Bank at Holborn Circle, situated alongside many other jewelers and watch retailers. This block remains the home of upscale jewelers today and was the home of the De Beers diamond company for a century.

In 1876, control of the London operation passed from Célestin Baume to his nephew, Arthur (about 1852-1936). Over nearly a half-century in Hatton Garden, Arthur Baume would become a fixture in London society, contributing to the so-called “Swiss Colony” as well as more conventional organizations like the Royal Geographical Society. Arthur’s connections allowed him to challenge the status quo of British watches, tempting fashionable gentlemen away from the old fashioned designs that had earned Baume & Company a place in the market.

In addition to selling watches produced by their own workshops in London and Switzerland, the Baume & Company showroom represented the Longines factory of Saint-Imier. The English considered the anchor or “Swiss lever” escapement to be unreliable, but the Longines watch was eventually able to overcome this reputation. Thus, the Baume Brothers not only met the needs of the British market but cracked it open for French and Swiss imports! The Baume Frères “Ironclad” pocket watch also caught on with the British sportsman thanks to its unusual oxidized steel case.

Another major new product to reach Switzerland through the Baume showroom was the so-called “Four-in-Hand” watch. This used a large 38-ligne movement and could be mounted on the dashboard of a “brougham, dog-cart, Raleigh cart, or similar vehicle.” Longines produced these clocks with 30-hour or 8-day movements as large as 60 lignes and they became a must-have accessory that lasted even into the time of the automobile.

Consolidation of Swiss Suppliers

While Célestin focused on his English customers, his brothers continued to organize and centralize their supplier relationships.

The third brother, Auguste Baume focused on gilding (“dorage”) in the first half of the 1850s but was listed alongside Baume frères in Les Bois as a “negociant et fabricant” in the second half of the decade. About 1856, Auguste moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds to tap into the network of suppliers there, but this effort was cut short: He died on May 29 1859 at just 38 years of age. Still, the Baume family maintained its ties to suppliers in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and would move the operation to the city in the 20th century.

Youngest brother Eugène Baume was a skilled assembler of watches in Les Bois before moving to Geneva in 1859. He spent his life connecting the Baume family to the skilled makers of complicated watches and suppliers of gold cases there. His watch finishing operation was located on the right bank in Geneva, moving one block from Rue du Pradier 3 to rue du Mont-Blanc 20 by 1866. Eugène’s life was cut short on February 24, 1875, ending the official presence of the Frères Baume in Geneva.

The marriages of the Baume siblings created deeper connections: Their spouses included a Chapuis, two Jobins, two Girardins, and a Piquerez, all familiar names in watchmaking. There are many records showing contributions by the Jobin family in particular3 to the growing Baume enterprise, jointly opening a steam-powered watch case factory in Le Noirmont and Les Bois.

In 1857 the Frères Baume exhibited at the Swiss Trade and Industrial Exhibition in Berne. This was a predecessor to the familiar Swiss Industries Fair in Basel (later called BaselWorld) as well as the famous series of national expositions, which continue to this day. The company sent 59 watches (21 in silver and 38 in gold), “all exquisitely crafted and valued at over 7,000 francs; they were produced by Messrs. Baume in the style of the watches they manufacture for the English market, where the firm successfully sells its products to great advantage.” The company was criticized for the crudeness of its display (it was the first-ever such expo after all), as well as the fact that none of its successful English-style watches were included. But this is no surprise, since the company was already producing different watches in Les Bois, Geneva, and London, and this exhibit only reflected local products from the Jura region. Considering how young the company was, this global scope was truly revolutionary.

Fragmentation of the Baume Family

Perhaps it is unsurprising that this far-reaching and interconnected network of companies did not last. Control of the Baume family business fell solely to Victor’s sons, since Auguste and Eugène lacked heirs, and Célestin’s son Alexandre died tragically in Alsace in 1894.

Alcide and Virgile Baume replaced Victor and his brothers as the namesake “frères Baume” in the 1883 FOSC survey of Swiss businesses, though Victor Baume retained his power of attorney until his death in September of 1887. Alcide, Virgile, and Mélina Baume inherited the Swiss properties of their father Victor three years earlier; middle brother Arthur Baume is left out, as he had become a British citizen and taken over the London firm of Baume & Co in 1876.

24 year old Virgile Baume aligned himself with the London branch in 1885, moving to Geneva to re-establish Baume & Co there after the death of his uncle Eugène a decade earlier. He was removed from the Les Bois operation in 1892, with his older brother Alcide Baume becoming the sole “successeur de Baume frères.” Alcide also took over the Le Noirmont watch case factory formerly called Baume & Jobin. But Alcide was increasingly focused on supplier companies outside Les Bois. In August 1889 he offered the company’s brand new factory, including its 8 horsepower steam power plant, for sale. He simply no longer needed manufacturing in the village of his birth.

Everything seemed to be going well for Alcide Baume, who married Alexine Chapuis and welcomed twin sons Jämes and Alexandre in 1882, followed by Rachel in 1884, William in 1885, Jeanne in 1887, and Marguerite in 1892. But Alcide’s family would never be as close as their predecessors. Alexine died on September 8, 1893, leaving business-focused Alcide with six young children. They were raised at boarding schools4, as their father and uncles had been, but with no home in Les Bois to welcome them.

Jeanneret and Mosimann

With Jämes Baume intent on becoming a dentist, Alcide Baume sent his twin Alexandre to London in 1904 to learn about the family’s British business. It is likely that Alexandre worked at Baume & Co in Hatton Garden alongside another Swiss apprentice three years older, Paul-César Jeanneret. Alexandre must have impressed his uncle Arthur, as he remained in London and took over the British operation in 1923.

Paul-C. Jeanneret was sent back to La Chaux-de-Fonds a few months after Alexandre arrived to establish a better supply network for Baume & Co. This operation was acquired in 1909, becoming an official subsidiary of the British firm.

With the historic Baume family workshop in Les Bois now closed, the remaining corporate structure was merged into an established firm in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1911. Ulrich Mosimann established a watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1876, the same year Arthur took over Baume & Co in London. He was likely a supplier of the British branch, either directly or through Victor and Alcide Baume in Les Bois. His sons, Paul and Albert Mosimann, took over the company as Mosimann frères following his death in 1889 and incorporated it as Mosimann & Cie six years later. Paul Mosimann became increasingly important in politics and in the Swiss watch industry, becoming mayor of La Chaux-de-Fonds and a National Councilor and president of the Chambre Suisse de l’Horlogerie, leaving him little time for his family firm.

When Paul Mosimann left Mosimann & Cie in 1911, the former firm of Alcide Baume in Les Bois was absorbed into it, with Alcide’s son William Baume joining Albert Mosimann as owner.

The three successor companies (Baume & Co of London and La Chaux-de-Fonds and Mosimann & Cie) must have been very close indeed: They used the same trademarks, with confusing overlapping registrations for “Baume Watch”, “Baume”, and the “B & Co” hallmark found on British and Swiss movements alike. Following the death of Alcide Baume on May 20, 1916 the La Chaux-de-Fonds businesses even shared the same office at Rue du Nord 1165. Jeanneret left the company in 1913 to focus on greater ambitions, becoming the head of the Syndicat des Fabricants Suisses de Montres Or and founding the Information Horlogère Suisse, a clearinghouse of industry statistics. He was replaced by young William Baume, son of Alcide and brother of Alexandre.

Baume & Mercier, Baume & Company, and Baume

Following the death of his father, with his brother ensconced in London and the historic Baume family companies now under the ownership of the Mosimann family, William Baume looked elsewhere. He had met a dashing salesman at the Geneva showroom of Haas Neveux while on a business trip in 1912. Baume decided to take his inheritance and invest it in a new partnership with Paul Tcherednitchenko-dit-Mercier in 1918. Thus, the Geneva firm of Baume et Mercier was born.

In 1923, after nearly 50 years in control, Arthur Baume passed control of Baume & Company in London to his nephew, William brother, Alexandre Baume. He continued to grow the business there, soon coming into competition with his brother’s Baume & Mercier. Baume & Company was able to prevent the Geneva upstart from using the family name in the British market, especially after William was forced out during the Great Depression. Alexandre was succeeded in 1946 by his own son, Louis-C. Baume, who continued the firm until the 1960s.

Following his 1934 departure from his namesake firm of Baume & Mercier, William Baume opened a retail jewelry store in Geneva. The Baume showroom, located directly across the street from the famous department store Grand Passage, represented the great Swiss watch brands: Zénith, Tissot, Omega, Longines, and even Baume & Mercier! The business was continued by Baume’s own sons well into the 1970s.

The Grail Watch Perspective

The most impressive accomplishment of the Baume family was how quickly they built a global watchmaking business, and how early they were to the idea of vertical integration. Even before industrialization and factories, Victor Baume and his brothers understood the importance of controlling the supply chain and the value of reaching all the way to the customer. Despite being constrained by the nature of watchmaking in the 19th century, both in Switzerland and in England, which was limited to small workshops and suppliers, the Baume brothers built a remarkable enterprise.

The wide reach of the Baume family watchmaking business made it incredibly difficult to research. There is very little primary source information, and I am far more adept when it comes to Swiss history than British archives. Thankfully, David Boettcher beat me to it with a thorough look at Baume & Company in England, and I suggest looking at his excellent article! I have far more to say on this subject, and hope to write a follow-on article about “Baume After Mercier” in the future.

Notes

Bertie Blossoms is a tapas bar/restaurant near Ladbroke Grove, at the Northern end of Portobello Road.

We were sat at a table upstairs at the small cosy restaurant, going past a large abstract artwork by the owner. There were a few tables occupied, with the bar downstairs relatively busy too. It is not a large establishment, but it felt cosy and welcoming. The upstairs was a little low, so careful if you're tall like me!

The menu contains of a few bar snacks, and a dozen or so sharing plates — tapas style. We ordered the Padron Peppers from the snack menu, and the Gambas al Ajillo, Baby Carrots, Woodland Wild Mushrooms, and meatballs from the "To Share" section.

The dishes were served in a random order, with the meatballs first. They were served with a spicy Nduja sauce and topped with grated cheese. The baby carrots were served with some yoghurt, a Labneh, and had some toasted hazelnuts sprinkled over it. The wild mushrooms came with some toasted sourdough, which was great to lap the remaining juices up with. The gambas were whole, but it was easy to remove the flesh from the shell. Some focaccia on the side helped with the cooking juices again.

All the dishes were well presented and flavourful. Our only gripe was that many of the items of the sharing dishes came in odd numbers. And perhaps that half of the music was Ed Sheeran songs (played at a discreet volume) — but then again, that isn't bad considering he owns the place.

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