Some shots off my first roll of Lucky SHD50 film. Stand developed in 510-Pyro (1:300 for 1hr, briefly agitated at 30min). I shot these at ISO 12... which is probably underexposing. Super-high contrast (obviously). I would not recommend stand development of any kind with this film. I was trying it with 510-Pyro to see if I could get a bit less contrast. I don't think it helped and caused some intense fogging of the base layer. This film feels a little like shooting with a deep red filter... but with even less light sensitivity.

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Has anyone here ever used 510-Pyro to develop a very low ISO film? I have someone sending me a couple of rolls of Lucky SHD50 which, despite its name, has an ISO somewhere between 5-10. The person sending it found it super-contrasty and wants to see what it'd look like with 510-Pyro's stain. I'm thinking of doing a 1hr stand development, but would love to hear other thoughts/opinions.

@pictorialplanet, maybe you have some idea?

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From my first roll developed with 510-Pyro. Shot with a Yashica-C on Kodak T-Max 100.

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First roll I've developed using 510-Pyro, first roll I've fixed using AGFA 304, first batch of AGFA 304 I've mixed myself from the raw ingredients (there are only three)... and the negatives actually look like negatives! No guarantee that the photos will be any good (I chose this roll in particular because I'm fairly confident there's nothing of value to be lost), but I'm happy anyway.

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I've been reading that T-grain films "require" rapid fixer because they fix so slowly. Is that actually true? Or does the fixing time just become prohibitively long in non-rapid fixers? Could you use a non-rapid fixer on a T-grain film if you were willing to wait?

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I may experiment with caffenol for developing my next few rolls of black and white film. I've previously used Df96 (yes, I know that monobath developers are sneered at by many film photographers, but I've always gotten pretty good results) and D-76. 510 Pyro is also on my list to try, since I've read that the negative staining is great for alt-process contact prints.

For anyone doing home development: have any thoughts on developers? Favorites, etc?

Also, it makes sense that James Hoffmann would have one of the better (beginner) videos about caffenol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bhOtTUtPhg

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Each color dev kit can yield 12-16 rolls of film dev for me. I use Bellini’s kit (I try to use their chemicals for all non BW film!) and the results are great.

Here someone compares the time and cost for each color kit. Bellini is almost as expensive as Kodak’s (I don’t want to deal with replenishes so I don’t use Kodak’s, Bellini’s also comes in amounts that fit how I shoot color (12-16 rolls every 3 months).

I’ve got my workflow down and I really enjoy doing it at home.

https://shootitwithfilm.com/c-41-film-developing-kit-comparison-adox-bellini-cinestill-kodak/

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A hair cut on the Upper East Side

(Minolta Hi-Matic 7S II, Tri-X 400, DDX, Nikon CoolScan 8000ED)

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Cable car on California Street

(Yashica Mat 124G, Kodak T-max 400, developed in Xtol, scanned at home on Nikon CoolScan 8000ED)

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It’s going to take a while to process all of these (I have color, black and white, slide film, AND motion picture film to process)… I have the chemicals for all of them, but will need to do some planning to get the most from the different chemicals. :/

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