Creality K1 Series CFS Upgrade Kit
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Creality K1 Max Curves Surface Issue
Creality K1 Max Curves Surface Issue - sh.itjust.works
I have a K1 Max and mostly it is running great, however I get strange artifacts on mostly only the front side of curved objects. I have lubed all the rods, and I have a Capricorn PTFE tube from the filament sensor to the hot end. I tried the printable guide for the tube to go into the hot end but it wasn’t any better and I thought that was the culprit at first. I have an extension piece to raise up the top glass. I’m using Elegoo Rapid PTEG running at 240c and 250mm outerwall speed. This is mainly happening on the front side and anywhere on the build plate. Filament is dry and fed out of the Creality Space dryer. These items are small netcups but it was also happening on the larger sections that they go in. Using Orcaslicer and Arachne wall generator. [https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/4e215dd4-ffa6-4a5d-8374-ea4dff446932.jpeg] [https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/0fc976d9-4f9c-480b-ba16-fbbe635bb75e.jpeg] [https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/a9df8b6c-8dbe-4920-9f8e-dc340818a7a7.jpeg] Any ideas where I need to be focusing my attention on?
Elite C Firmware Issue
Elite C Firmware Issue - sh.itjust.works
Hey all, working on a Corne Choc, and having issues flashing the right half of the board with QMK Toolbox. I am getting a validating error with: 822 invalid byte in program region, 0 outside region This is the second controller as I had the same error on the first and assumed I ruined it when I was troubleshooting it and desoldering. Ordered a new board and same issue. I’ve cleared the EEPROM, there are not shorts or bad solder on the headers. This is a completely separate PCB. Tried using QMK MSYS to reflash ISP (not sure I got that right, don’t really understand it). Get a blue led indicating power, reset button works to put it into bootloader mode, still nothing will flash on it. Unfortunately on the first go round I had soldered headers to swap but was too tall for me, desoldered the boards and went directly to the PCB, as mentioned this is a new board on a new PCB, did not program prior to soldering.
Update:
I took everyone’s advice and tried all the suggestions. In the end I completely disassembled the printer and made sure everything was square or perpendicular where it needed to be. I think maybe the dual z screws were binding, although when I took everything apart I noticed that I did not use the Y cable for both z steppers, I ran the original short cable to one motor and
the Y to another, not sure if that had any effect or not, but now the Y cable is running both z steppers.
It does seem to be better, but I still have the dip in the bed, which is still a bit of an issue for the BL Touch, but not nearly as bad as before. I may have slightly bowed it when trying to crank down the levelling wheels.
I think that the z screws were binding just enough that it couldn’t keep up with the micro adjustments, I guess time will tell.
Thanks for everyone’s input and advice, hopefully it’ll run for a couple more years. If not then a replacement Bamboo might be in order.
Now I just need my resin printers to stop failing prints, but I think that’s more me than the printers. lol
Thanks everyone.
Upgraded Ender 3v2 Issues
Upgraded Ender 3v2 Issues - sh.itjust.works
I’ve had an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and have had mostly no issues. I’ve upgraded the hot end to a microswiss direct drive and a dual z setup (twin z steppers on a shared cable). Recently started having issues with the 4.2.2 board and replaced it with a BTT mini SKR 3 v3. Since I’ve put the new board in, I am having troubles getting the bed to level and stay level. The height profile of the bed is now showing a dip in the centre (which was not there before). When I run a print it seems to be overcompensating for the dip. If I level the bed with the corner screws and don’t use the bed mesh then it prints fairly good, but after a few prints the bed goes out of level again. I can’t seem to make any adjustments that help the issue. Yesterday tightened up all the screws (silicon spacers instead of springs). Releveled the bed and had a small dip in the middle and an overall height difference of 0.170 across the bed (normal prior to this was 0.310). Sent a print with bed mesh and mostly came out good. Went to fire up a new print today and the bed height is showing 0.830 overall difference. I’m not sure if it is a BL touch issue (the BL touch is a v3.1 and is original with a single 5 wire connector plugged into mini SKR) dual z issue (disconnected 1 in an attempt to level and didn’t see much difference, the BTT has two connectors for dual z but run off one stepper driver as I understand it, I am using the y cable for only one stepper motor, while the other motor has its own cable). I use klipper with a RPi zero 2 w. I just can’t seem to figure out that has been causing the issue since the board swap. Anyone have some ideas as where to point me?