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I know it’s not really adding anything to the conversation but I can’t not say thank you that’s dope.
That’s amazing. I have a Pi 4 currently running home assistant and pihole. Sounds like my pi family might be growing soon. Had no idea the 5 could run those features. Appreciate you
I really want to use (and support) this, but my case would be the server running on a windows pc with great hardware for all the ML/AI stuff and SSD database storage, but all my media on a NAS. (I’m a flight sim addict, Linux isn’t an option or I’d do it in a heartbeat) Last time I tried, I got the server running in docker pretty easily, but could not for the life of me get my media connected. Any chance that process has improved?
Ok so people think I’m racist. I’m not, but thank you for clearing that up, genuinely.

You’re right, I missed it. Juggling 6 different things at the moment.

I still feel like I’m in crazy town in this thread. Since you are actually trying to help, can you explain to me- is the question really that ridiculous or did I word it poorly? I’m asking IF he had ties to ISIS, hypothetically, was the first Islamic extremist attack on US soil since 9/11? I since did some research because apparently I’m a moron, and I found two: fort Hood shooting in 2009 and Pulse nightclub in 2016. So the answer to the question is, no, it wouldn’t be the first, but why is it so outrageous?

He might not of. I’m asking if he did, would it be the first

Obviously, we need to wait to hear if he was born in the US or not*, but assuming he immigrated, would this be the first major terror attack on the United States by a foreign organization since 9/11?

*There are many possibilities, he could be American born and became radicalized and changed his name (in that case I’d still argue it was an attack led by a foreign terror organization) or he could have been a radicalized American who managed to get there all on his own.

I still am, and I still do.

Guide for Meross (WiFi) deployment in Multiple AP environments

https://lemmy.world/post/23283675

Guide for Meross (WiFi) deployment in Multiple AP environments - Lemmy.World

No one asked for this as far as I know, but I’ve spent a little over a week trying to get a Meross smart product (Homekit compatible, WiFi based) to play nicely in my 2-AP UniFi deployment. In the spirit of trying to build a body of knowledge for others that doesn’t exist only on Reddit, I’m writing down what worked for me with the hope that one day in the future, a weary reader will find it and get help. My setup: - Unifi gateway (UCG-Max) - Unifi U7 Pro - Unifi AC-Pro - dumb switch - Various bulbs and switches from Phillips and Lutron that work over hubs connected via ethernet to switch. (Never had an issue with these) - Meross Homekit compatible, wifi, powerstrip - the problem child. I use Homekit because I like it and it’s good. I run a RPi with homebridge when I need to. The WiFi devices are the bane of my existence, but a large number of available products out there still, sadly, use it. I couldn’t find a power strip that doesn’t. Getting it connected in the first place is a bear. 1st step is to create a separate SSID for IoT devices, 2.4 Ghz only, WPA2 only. Unifi console has a once click switch to set this up nicely for you. This will usually make a successful connection and your device will likely work fine for… a while. The problem for me is that 24 hours later, it would be offline again. The missing step and TL;DR is this: lock the smart wifi device to a SINGLE AP. Unifi lets you do this easily and I’m sure others do as well. DO NOT allow this device to attempt to roam to different APs. It can’t handle it, because it’s stupid. I gave it a static IP as well for good measure. I hope this helps you, weary traveler. If anyone knows of a power strip that’s thread enabled and not WiFi, for under a billion dollars please let me know…

I think if you had just left it at “Got a substitute?” and left off the snark you wouldn’t be downvoted into oblivion. I’ll try to give you my honest take. It’s a fair question. Amazon is a really nice service. I was a prime member for many years. About 3 years ago I cancelled because: the price kept going up, the usability of the site keeps getting worse, (alphabet soup pop up “brands” poisoning search results) and the customer service has gotten worse.

My process now is, search for what I want with one or more search engines, or, a website with reviews I trust like wirecutter, seriouseats, rtings, gamersnexus, etc. Once I decide on the item, see if the manufacturer sells it direct. Then, I price compare using a google shopping search. If Amazon comes in at MUCH cheaper than everyone else, I might still buy from them. If it’s close, especially if it’s a small business, I try to go more direct. If your cart is over USD $35, shipping is still free but slower. If I have smaller things less than $35, I sit on them and wait until I need enough to put me over or stock up on basics like garbage bags. If I need something fast and Amazon is the only place to get it, I can still pay for shipping several times a year and spend less than I would on the prime subscription. I typically only need to pay for shipping once or twice a year.

You can make Amazon compete and behave better without completely cutting them out of your life. Cancel prime, and shop around.