There’s an explicit clause that exempts politicians from the ban. They get privacy because they need it, but nobody else does.

The very top layer would also have high cooling fan, no?

It could be your cooling fan is just waaaay too powerful, and causing the plastic to not flow and bond correctly to the lower (or following) layers.

I’ve been seeing your posts on Masto, but I guess I’ll reply here.

I don’t know what printer you have, and I don’t know if the feature works for all printers, but could you try and use PrusaSlicer to visualise the print where the issue presents itself. More specifically, you could get some interesting data from the “actual print speed” view. That way you can see what speed the printhead reaches.

However, based on your description:

• when the printer reaches high print speeds you get delam
• slowing down the print head reduces (but doesn’t eliminate delam)

Could you be reaching the limit of what your printhead can melt? Would it make sense to calculate the actual flow through your nozzle at those high speeds? Finally, how much part cooling do you have setup? Have you tried a skirt to keep the temps more consistent?

Honestly, I think it’s because of legacy. When we started angling cameras and trying to mess with “the perfect angle”, it became pretty natural to need to roll to compensate for the camera angle. I remember some people tried to program their controllers to compensate for this. I believe in BF you can use roll_yaw_cam_mix_degrees to automatically manage this for you.

However, the quad purists always looked down on it. People coming from fixed wing love it.

Thanks for sharing. Did you fix the TX issues? It seems like really terrible range. Your GPS also doesn’t seem to have any idea where you are. Were you able to sort this out?

I live in Copenhagen, Denmark. There’s half a dozen scuba clubs in the area, and I’m a member of one of them. I got my speedboat license and the club trained me to take one of the boats out. I’m hoping to get the training for the second (larger) boat this year.

This means anytime I feel like going diving, and the weather is forgiving, I have a whole boat of people who want to tag along. I have a core group of people I dive a lot with, but basically anyone in the dive club is a very decent diver. Most of them have hundreds of dives, some of them in the thousands, and some of them at levels I can’t even begin to completely fathom. Very hardcore technical stuff, sidemount CCR in Norwegian caves and stuff.

Dive clubs cost money because they’re expensive to run. I pay about 15€/$20 per month. With that, we get a full trimix filling station with either partial pressure or continuous blending (doing my tech blender course this afternoon), a fully stocked workshop, 2 boats + trailers, a trailer for gear when we’re going on longer trips, 4-10 trips per year abroad (not included in the club fee, obviously), washing and drying room, storage for gear, cylinders, etc. Air fills are free and unlimited, nitrox/helitrox/trimix obviously we have to pay for the gases we use, but the club sells oxygen and helium at-cost. We also have a bar with at-cost drinks.

We have old-timers in the club who have been diving for 40-50 years. Some of them still dive to this day. They are a wealth of information.

If you have the gear and want to dive multiple times a week, year-round, then joining a club is definitely worth it.

Not sure what you need to get approved. Buying a roll of ASA? It’s part of printer maintenance, and making it more reliable in the long run.

And if you don’t have ABS/ASA on hand… why is the printer in an enclosure?

It’s the PETG. Specifically, it is the softening on the following parts:

• y-belt-holder-R2
• y-belt-holder-tensioner-R2
• x-end-motor-R2
• x-end-idler-R2

I would recommend the following Y-axis mod for the MK4. I am still running this even on the MK4S, even though the Y-axis was modified on the MK4S.

My money is on the PETG starting to loosen and you losing tension on the belts.

You have the MK4 in an enclosure–I did too. At some point I stopped being able to print flexibles, but ASA/PCCF was still fine. Prusa support told me that the idler was getting loose and my hotend was losing grip on the fillament.

I had another print where there was a nearly 2-3cm shift in the layers between layer 5 and layer 80. Some of my belts had absolutely lost the plot. I reprinted everything in ASA or PCCF, and while upgrading to the MK4S rebuilt the printer with all ASA/PCCF parts. No problems since.