Mastodawn

Question: To replace or attempt fix

Question: To replace or attempt fix - Lemmy.World

Hello, everyone. I have a 5 year old voxelabs aquila (ender 3v2). It worked great for 2 years then started modding it, since then problems. Im at the point with bltouch and klipper from raspi4 and custom fans that it might not be worth my time to even fix. Previous 3d printed fan shroud broke and printer another, but there is supports in the blower tubes i cant remove fully plus removed the x? Stop sensor as thought was good after starting with klipper and setting it all up but it smashes to the end of the line and errors so that needs to fixed. Plus never really got the bltouch working due to wrong offsets. Idk sounds like small issues i could fix but i just want a working 3d printer. Ive been seeing all new printers now have auto bed leveling, direct drive, most have pressure advance, vibration compensation and other features that i kinda would like but i only print hobby stuff and current printer has been sitting for over a year due to not needing it and the fact its not working. Basically should i just replace it with a used Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro or a new Elegoo Centuri Carbon, or just fix what I have?

Spaz Feb 25, 2024

Klipper from marlin, tons of issues

https://lemmy.world/post/12409369

Klipper from marlin, tons of issues - Lemmy.World

I am finally reaching out as I am at my wits end and need experienced people to help me resolve my printing issue. I have a Voxelabs Aquila (Ender 3 v2) formerly running marlin with small but manageable annoyances like overhang and manual bed leveling and thus began my journey after a year of using Aquila to start modding/upgrading the thing. First thing i did was upgrade the fans and shroud, this improved prints slightly but was still not satisfied. Moved to Klipper and added BLTouch and this is where all my problems started. After hours of following guides and troubleshooting of setting them both up, i still get very little bed adhesion and layers are not smooth together (gaps) with the same 3d slicing software i have been using before the switch (yes changed it to Klipper firmware in slicer) As you can see in the picture this is after a manual bed level. Where do i go from here? Edit 2: fully cleaned nozzle, hotend, and bed without any other changes with same results. Edit 1: forgot to add my printer.cfg [include mainsail.cfg] [stepper_x] step_pin: PC2 dir_pin: PB9 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PA5 position_endstop: 3 position_max: 235 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_y] step_pin: PB8 dir_pin: PB7 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PA6 position_endstop: -17 position_max: 228 position_min: -17 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_z] step_pin: PB6 dir_pin: !PB5 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 8 endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop #position_endstop: 0.0 position_max: 250 position_min: -6 [extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0 step_pin: PB4 dir_pin: PB3 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 34.406 nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PA1 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 #control: pid # tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target #pid_Kp: 21.527 #pid_Ki: 1.063 #pid_Kd: 108.982 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 250 [bltouch] # Can't move this configuration to include because of z-offset adjustment sensor_pin: ^PB1 control_pin: PB0 x_offset: -28 y_offset: -15 #z_offset = 0 samples: 2 speed: 2 #pin_move_time: 0.500 #probe_with_touch_mode: False #pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True #pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True #stow_on_each_sample: False [safe_z_home] home_xy_position: 125,125 #this should be the center of your bed speed: 50 z_hop: 10 z_hop_speed: 5 [bed_mesh] speed: 80 horizontal_move_z: 5 mesh_min: 3, 33 #!!min and max co-ords are based on the probes location not the nozzle!! mesh_max: 207, 213 #needs to be calibrated for your individual printer probe_count: 5,5 #this is the number of probing points on X then Y axis mesh_pps: 2,2 fade_start: 1 fade_end: 10 fade_target: 0 [bed_screws] screw1: 25, 25 screw2: 195, 25 screw3: 195, 195 screw4: 25, 195 [heater_bed] heater_pin: PA2 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC4 #control: pid # tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target #pid_Kp: 54.027 #pid_Ki: 0.770 #pid_Kd: 948.182 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130 [fan] pin: PA0 [mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 restart_method: command [printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 300 max_accel: 3000 max_z_velocity: 5 max_z_accel: 100 #*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------> #*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated. #*# #*# [extruder] #*# control = pid #*# pid_kp = 31.251 #*# pid_ki = 2.510 #*# pid_kd = 97.268 #*# #*# [heater_bed] #*# control = pid #*# pid_kp = 69.577 #*# pid_ki = 1.022 #*# pid_kd = 1184.541 #*# #*# [bltouch] #*# z_offset = 3.609

Spaz Feb 15, 2024

Wifi relay board + usbc trigger boards + Home Assistant

https://lemmy.world/post/11975604

Wifi relay board + usbc trigger boards + Home Assistant - Lemmy.World

Looking to combine: ESP8266 1/2/4/8/16 Channel Way Wireless WIFI Relay Module AC/DC 5V/7-28V/5-80V + Usbc trigger 12v modules + 12v 10A (possibly more or 2 split between half of relays) power supply connected in parallel across all relays + Buck converter to drop 12v to 5v to power relays Purpose? Want to migrate all my power for my devices for my network equipment that support 12v to usbc. I will probably get the 16 relay and split up 4 sections to the usbc specs (5v,9v,12v,20v) for all my device power needs. Thoughts? Suggestions? Has anyone tried this?