Wait, really? I haven’t seen that yet. Idk what country you’re currently in, but in Canada, almost every level 3 charger I’ve ever used is like a dumb phone display

What? No representation for series-parallel killers?

I remember seeing stuff like this on somethingawful decades ago. Another one was removing the teeth from mouths of people laughing like the people in this image. It was also funny and slightly horrifying. Maybe someday somebody will try it again. I miss the old Internet

Do you want to watch me play Rachmaninoff on a Stradivarius?

And that’s why I have leather couches. You don’t see the hair until you need to move the cushions, then you have little mountains to vacuum up. Or, put the cushion back down and watch your living room turn into a snow globe

41 and I’m surprised I’m not more crazy spending as much time alone as I do

It is and it isn’t. To use the onboard control to actuate the parking brake, yes, you have to use the paywalled software. But it’s a simple motor. Positive and negative. If you disconnect the connector at the parking brake and use fused jumper leads to a 12v battery, you can cause the actuator to go forward or backwards. Make sure the parking brake isn’t applied before doing anything, disconnect the cars battery, disconnect the p brake connector, jump the terminals once you figure out which polarity causes the retraction. Manually compress the caliper piston, replace the pads (and hopefully the rotors too). Pump the brake pedal as you would normally once everything is replaced, reconnect everything, and you’re good to go. in my experience this doesn’t work on ford but there’s a service procedure that doesn’t use a scanner to force the park brake into service mode. There’s always a way around dumb stuff like this

Good for you. There’s plenty of things most people overlook or don’t think about when it comes to doing this.

Clean the mating surfaces. Make sure to use a flat block and reasonably aggressive sandpaper on the rims as to not change the plane. Use a die grinder to clean around the hub on the car side, a stud cleaner with an abrasive disc gets where the grinder can’t reach.

Apply a ring of grease around the hub, nothing on the studs or wheels, this can affect the torque on the wheel nuts. This helps with removal.

Use a torque wrench. Guessing on the clamping force can cause wheel separations and if overdone, make removal extremely difficult and can snap studs.

Recheck the torque after 100kms. And again after 500.

Check the age of the tires. There’s a 4 digit code on the sidewall like 2322. That’s the build date of the tire. It represents when the tire is made. First 2 digits are the week, last 2 are the year. If you can, don’t exceed 7 years (industry standard). Transport Canada recommends not exceeding 10 years regardless of tire condition.

Torque your wheels in the appropriate pattern, remove your wheel nuts in the same pattern. Loosening wheel nuts in a circle pattern (especially with hot brake components) can cause deformation to the rotor and cause a pulsation when braking.

Rotate your tires. Mark them where they come off. Mark them from where they came off and rotate them accordingly. If they’re directional tires, make sure they’re on the right way. Mark the location on the tread, not the inside. Gets confusing as the years go by. On the tread, that gets rubbed off as you drive.

Don’t do vehicle repair for a career, do it as a hobby to save you money.

At this point, I don’t care what’s between the legs, feminine presenting and the feeling that somebody loves and respects me would make my heart flutter.