Huh. I knew that Postscript support had been (foolishly) removed from macOS' Preview.app, but apparently at some point after that the pstopdf converter was removed as well. I used to use this to read manpages in a nicer format than a Terminal window.
Oddly, man -t ps (i.e., output Postscript) still works fine; there's just no built-in way to open the result.
🍵 