@davidonformosa my wife took me there last year after she had taken the kids the year before. It is overrated indeed but it still a cute town with great views. And the secret we found is to go to the tea house directly across from the famous one, sit outside and enjoy watching the crowds and imagine yourself in a Ghibli movie anyways.
My favorite simple place to visit near Taipei is Shiding. We go sit and chat with the uncle that sells tea for a while, and then eat the chicken and the little fried fish at the restaurant there at the entrance to the alley. The soy, chili, garlic, green onion (or is it chives, can’t remember) is fantastic