Mastodawn

🧵 2/7 @sewing

I started by putting it on inside out so I could draw new lines for the side seams with chalk. Then, after using a French curve and hip curve ruler to straighten the lines, I tested it by #sewing an easy-to-seam-rip straight stitch in white thread using a long 5mm stitch length.

After trying it on, I had to make some more modifications, like tightening it further around my waist, adding a little more room in the chest, etc. Then, I sewed the new side seams on my serger.

🧵 3/7 @sewing #sewing

Stretchy #spandex is very forgiving, so it didn’t need to be perfect. At least I was able to get the look I was going for!

I really wish I had taken a photo of the fit before the alterations, though, because it’s a huge difference. What do you think?

I still needed to coverstitch the sleeve and leg hems, which have very narrow diameters.

🧵 4/7 @sewing

The original hems appear to have been sewn with a straight stitch, so I suppose they used stretchy thread? I wanted to sew two-needle #coverstitch hems though, to preserve as much stretch as possible.

I use my industrial coverstitch machine the least, so I’m less confident #sewing with it. I was dreading that sometimes it takes a lot of trial and error to get it set up correctly since I also use it for chain-stitching jean hems with heavy-duty needles and thread.

🧵 5/7 @sewing

Indeed, it took over an hour of trial and error to get set up because the right needle kept skipping stitches.

I remembered I had a similar issue back in August 2024 (https://mastodon.social/@DanielMenjivar/113008694654158491) and changing the needles fixed it, but these needles had very little use on them.

After adjusting tensions, checking that the needles were inserted correctly, checking and re-checking the threading, and pulling out my hair with countless #sewing tests, changing the needles fixed it. 🤦🏽‍♂️

🧵 6/7 @sewing

Regarding the fit, my wife says, “It’s like it was #tailored just for you!” 😆 Almost.

I’m sure people with more experience in #sewing alterations can point out additional fixes/fit issues (comments/suggestions welcome), but mostly I’m just disappointed that, in better light, the stretched #fabric is much more sheer and translucent than I realized.

I’m going to make a pattern from this and sew myself a new #bodysuit after buying less sheer #spandex fabric.

@DanielMenjivar @sewing First of all I would like to congratulate you for your result, then I may suggest considering removing a bit of length from the rear. It is not always possible or advisable since the length of your completely folded back and hip shall be wihtin the elasticity of the fabric (close to the most stretched state) and the opposite position (streight with your back to the rear) should ideally be on the other extreme (close to relaxed almost no stretch on it)

@DanielMenjivar @sewing If this is not possible due to the elasticity of the fabric, you have to choose the positions where it shall be "fine" and when you don't care some wrinkles. (For example cycling clothes are made to work well when cycling but not necessarily to walk well on them, so yo use the stretch range for the riding position, not for walking). if you are making it as a challenge, you are free to choose. if it si for a particular purpose, then optimise for it.

@DanielMenjivar another detail is the transparency. the more it is stretched, the more transparent it gets. Another important thing is that you can find 2 way and 4 way stretching fabrics. For example: i'm considering this 2 way https://www.extremtextil.de/en/merino-wool-single-jersey-200g-sqm/70581.OLIV for my next cycling jersey) If i made a bodysuit from it I would have to alternate parts with the stretch form head to toe with others with the stretch left to right. I don't know your material but a 10% (form 0 to 20%) is a guess.

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@DanielMenjivar (This kind of fabric is less transparent than the one you used, hence the idea. I only use stretchy fabrics for cycling clothes and some underwear uses.) and I would suggest using round point needles (SUK) they are better for many types of fabric including tis one. (both for kints and for tailoring fabrics, plastics do better with an R and leathers with their "spear/sword" type needles)