I got a chance to do some #sewing this weekend!
I bought a black #spandex #bodysuit on Amazon that I think was intentionally designed to fit loosely, but I figured it would be easy enough to alter it to be more form-fitting. I forgot to take a photo of how it fit me before I modified it, but it was very baggy in all the wrong places and very unflattering.
🧵 1/7 @sewing
🧵 2/7 @sewing
I started by putting it on inside out so I could draw new lines for the side seams with chalk. Then, after using a French curve and hip curve ruler to straighten the lines, I tested it by #sewing an easy-to-seam-rip straight stitch in white thread using a long 5mm stitch length.
After trying it on, I had to make some more modifications, like tightening it further around my waist, adding a little more room in the chest, etc. Then, I sewed the new side seams on my serger.
Stretchy #spandex is very forgiving, so it didn’t need to be perfect. At least I was able to get the look I was going for!
I really wish I had taken a photo of the fit before the alterations, though, because it’s a huge difference. What do you think?
I still needed to coverstitch the sleeve and leg hems, which have very narrow diameters.
🧵 4/7 @sewing
The original hems appear to have been sewn with a straight stitch, so I suppose they used stretchy thread? I wanted to sew two-needle #coverstitch hems though, to preserve as much stretch as possible.
I use my industrial coverstitch machine the least, so I’m less confident #sewing with it. I was dreading that sometimes it takes a lot of trial and error to get it set up correctly since I also use it for chain-stitching jean hems with heavy-duty needles and thread.
🧵 5/7 @sewing
Indeed, it took over an hour of trial and error to get set up because the right needle kept skipping stitches.
I remembered I had a similar issue back in August 2024 (https://mastodon.social/@DanielMenjivar/113008694654158491) and changing the needles fixed it, but these needles had very little use on them.
After adjusting tensions, checking that the needles were inserted correctly, checking and re-checking the threading, and pulling out my hair with countless #sewing tests, changing the needles fixed it. 🤦🏽♂️
🧵 6/7 @sewing
Regarding the fit, my wife says, “It’s like it was #tailored just for you!” 😆 Almost.
I’m sure people with more experience in #sewing alterations can point out additional fixes/fit issues (comments/suggestions welcome), but mostly I’m just disappointed that, in better light, the stretched #fabric is much more sheer and translucent than I realized.
I’m going to make a pattern from this and sew myself a new #bodysuit after buying less sheer #spandex fabric.
🧵 7/7 @sewing
Lastly, here’s a quick video where you can better appreciate the skin-tight fit under movement. I’d like to reduce those horizontal lines across my back if I can, but I don’t think it’s too crucial…
When I try on the #bodysuit in front of the mirror in my #sewing room, it doesn’t look sheer at all. But sadly, under better lighting, you can even see my underwear under the bodysuit because the stretched #spandex is so translucent.
Congrats for persevering!
IMHO, two things to consider for your knocked-off pattern:
For one, AFAICT you removed excess width at the waist of the leotard at the side seams only, but IMV you're not that curvy at the waist . I'd therefore try to remove less excess at the side seams and the rest at the center back seam. You don't have a prominent behind but not a flat one either, so a bit of shaping there should be fine.
Furthermore, you may want to test-pin if a swayback >>>
<<< alteration removes the wrinkles, but only after shaping the CB seam.
Second point: I noted wrinkles at your knees. It goes without saying that this is pretty much unavoidable, but at least in my experience, if the legs are too tight there and are too excessively stretched, they'll ride up, giving you more wrinkles than necessary and potentially feeling uncomfortable when you sit down with bunched up fabric folds at the back of the knees.
HTH
@proscience @sewing Again, thank you! I’ll look up a sway back alteration for sure.
In terms of the knees, that’s a good catch, which I only noticed just before posting the photos. I did indeed tighten the legs slightly more than my first basting pass, so it’s worth having a closer look with your info. But I suspect it’s just the unavoidable type of knee wrinkles since my movement isn’t at all restricted when sitting. Still, it’s worth a closer look, so thank you for the help! 🙏🏽
You could shape the legs of the leotard—allowing for more room for your calves— so the leg isn't straight but shaped, but still snug when worn due to negative ease.
PS: Didn't find a better illustration right now, but have a look at this picture:
It's a leggings pattern for dolls w/out side seams, but you'll get the shaping idea.
@proscience @sewing Thank you so much! I did think that the waist curve looked excessive, but it worked to tighten the bodysuit below my belly.
Apart from the zipper insertion, there’s not really a center back seam, and I didn’t want to remove the zipper, but I suppose when creating a pattern I could always treat that as a seam and adjust from there. Thanks!
FWIW, the bodysuit is very comfortable, but it definitely makes my butt appear less prominent, a point my wife was quick to mention too.
Daniel Menjívar
ProScience 🇪🇺
TAV Creations