Edge

Hey, #DIY folks, have a question for you about a #door down to a basement.

This door is insulated and framed as if it were an outside door, as previously the basement wasn't conditioned. Now it is.

The sill framing is a real trip risk now, as we go up and down those stairs a lot more than previously, and you have to step over it, and down to the first stair. Usually when carrying something.

I'm wondering what can be done about this? Reframe the whole opening, and install a different door, and somehow fix the sill/wood floor?

Use a sawzall and just cut it out and see what happens?

Something else? Ideas appreciated.

Mar 4 at 9:30pmWeb
Show threadSeth of the Fediverse2d ago
@czarbucks My door to my basement is metal. Probably for safety reasons.
Show threadBrian Davis2d ago

@czarbucks I would start by just ripping up that piece of bottom trim (inch and half?). It looks like an add-on to block air flow, not a part of the door frame. You may be able to remove the sill as well but you might not want to.

I love how you did the stairs! Are those fancy decals on the risers or actual tile?

We finished our basement during quarantine and I go up and down our stairs a million times a day. Our HVAC guy suggested added louvers to the door for air flow but I haven't gotten around to it.

Show threadBrian Davis2d ago
@czarbucks pictures of my door if it helps at all. I haven't found this to be too much of a trip hazard but ymmv.
Show threadEdge2d ago

@intrepidhero The louvers are an interesting idea, you'll have to share those photos when you get there.

We put in a mini-split, but of course it doesn't bring in any fresh air. Had CO2 problems upstairs for a while, so ALSO had to add an ERV which seems to have helped. But we haven't been through a summer yet.

Oh, just saw your pics, thanks. I guess I don't really know what normal doors above stairs look like. I was hoping just to have it hanging there, like all my interior doors.

And thanks, the risers are all vinyl. The whole staircase thing was a big project but I like it every time I go up or down now.

Show threadAI6YR Ben2d ago
@czarbucks So, having put in a few doors and also a whole new double hung door on the front of the house, since you aren't concerned about air flow everything can be removed (gently). The problem you'll have is the transition between your hardwood floor and the door and how you want to hide it (or not). The bottom of the door, once your door is hung, has no structural purpose, as long as the sides of your door are properly secured... If it were me, I'd use a hacksaw and cut down to the level of your wood floor and to separate it from the sides (in case it goes under the sides). But it's possible you could just pry the whole bottom board off gently after unscrewing it from the floor. If it's nailed though, you'll have to crowbar it.
Show threadEdge2d ago

@ai6yr

Thanks, Ben, that's what I was thinking, too. I just hope that the finished wood floor would line up height-wise with the current white-painted stair nose if I remove everything else.

The door is a good 1" above the level of the finished floor.

No idea what I would do to transition yet, although we have added oak stair treads/stair nose to the garage steps.

Appreciate the pointers.

Now that I've started thinking about this, it bugs me every time I step over it. 😄

Show threadJer 🚲2d ago

@czarbucks

You just need to replace it with other nits. Like, are all of your light switches the same distance from the room's door?

@ai6yr

Show threadBrian Davis2d ago
@jerzone @czarbucks @ai6yr I'm going to hate you for pointing that out.
Show threadJer 🚲2d ago

@intrepidhero
😬
My wife's office has the worst light switch offset and each time I use it there's the thought it should be fixed. I point it out and she says, "huh, never noticed". [insert itchy, twitchy emoji]

@czarbucks @ai6yr

Show threadHippy Steve2d ago

@czarbucks @ai6yr

They make low profile thresholds for the transition. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-5-in-x-1-2-in-Wood-Interior-Threshold-WAT500/204737255

And if you wind up with an air gap, you can get a door sweep that attaches to the door to close the gap and seal it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-2-in-x-36-in-White-Premium-and-Reinforced-Rubber-Door-Sweep-Weatherstrip-A79WHA/100070485

Show threadEdge2d ago

@exador23 @ai6yr

Interesting, too, thanks. I need to look at those.

I had thougth about the bug sweep if the gap really is a big deal.

Show threadW6KME2d ago

@czarbucks Depending on where you live, you may want to be sure that whatevery your final outcome is you still maintain an airtight (ish) seal at the bottom. I think that will depend on whether you have services in the basement (hot water, furnace, etc.). In my state, passages into garages are built like exterior doors for that reason; could be a requirement there too.

Shouldn't be hard to remove that threshold without mangling it too much to see what's underneath.

Show threadEdge2d ago

@W6KME

I'll need to look into that, thanks. Since the gas furnace/water heater are down there and it was unfinished, I'm sure that's why this door was installed as it was.

Just not sure what the requirements are now that the basement is finished off.

I'm happy the garage door is like this, that room still gets into the 30's!

Show threadW6KME2d ago
@czarbucks If you do manage to install a much lower threshold, there are door sweeps that can be screwed to the bottom of the door to take up the space. Macklenburg-Duncan makes them, most big-box places stock them.
Show threadEdge2d ago

@W6KME

Great, appreciate it.

👍🏽

Show threadCatherine McCarthy2d ago
@czarbucks Boosted for others far more knowledgeable than me to review and comment on. 😄 Love the Talavera tiles and colored steps.