Me:
Others have already pointed out this is the tape in and that’s the headphone jack. To the left is an effects send and return which is after the preamp but before the power amp (it’s an in and an out where you’d plug in certain effects pedals). Far to the left is the instrument input. Depending on the specific signal you could probably route it through the effects return which bypasses the distortion of the preamp. I’d have to see exactly what the fuck they thought they were trying to accomplish.
The color of it makes me think of the old Peavey Rage 158 amps but they didn’t have an effects loop or tape in. So I’m not exactly sure which amp this is. The far right knob is the master volume and the one left of the effects loop is reverb. That’s not important but it’s interesting to me.
Impedence is the combination of resistance (ordinary resistance to current) and reactance which is resistance specific to alternating current which comes from the capacitors and coils in the equipment. Even a squiggly circuit trace can create reactance. So, impedence is resistance.
Whatch this short for a clear explanation:
youtube.com/shorts/tanon58nW1o
From what I’ve read, and from talking to a guy who own a music studio near me, impedance mismatch is a real thing in audio equipment. At best, it’ll lower the sound level causing you to have to crank up the volume, which just puts more strain on your equipment. Worse, it can cause crackling from waveform peaking. At the very worst, it can damage equipment.
Brushing it off just because the guy doesn’t know the wavelength of audio signals is a dick move. No wonder he stopped talking to you. I bet you, yourself, know a lot of things, a lot of true things, that you can’t explain to the utmost detail.
“You say quarks are combined with the strong force to make protons, huh? Well, what’s the binding force between an up and down quark? Oh, you don’t know? Curious.”

Yeah, if the cable impedance is small enough that you can still get the volume you need it doesn’t matter
The comment above is informed by radio electronics - in 1980s Australia had TV on low enough frequency that we used balanced wires (two parallel conductors, like speaker wires) for best interference rejection, with opposite voltage in each conductor and interfering signal will affect both conductor equally and opposite, cancelling the interfering signal (we also needed a “balun” on the antenna to match between the balanced wires and the unbalanced antenna)
Now every antenna you see on roofs and wifi devices connect with coax cables and connectors which are impedance matched to the antennas because impedance really really matters at microwave frequencies, those cables need shielding as they can’t reject interference in the way balanced cables can
they’d be mad about the lack of shielding, which COULD result in noise from interference. it won’t, but audiophiles love ignoring real-world measurements in favor of theoretical ones.
source: i am an audiophile, but one of the “spend money on gear, not cables” kind
Audio goes over balanced cables, as long as they’re close together they should receive equal and opposite interference, so interference is cancelled out
– Ham radio licensee
i find this a surprisingly elegant solution!!!
it’s nice and simple to put in place, and if you have this class of audio equipment at your whim, you probably have something to scavenge the copper from
copper does oxidize, but so long as it can trade broker enough electrons around, i’m definitely making use of this idea in the future, thank you for the post
I have done something similar. We were going to play Wii one night but my friend brought the wrong adapter.
I was thinking about the cables themselves but, you’re right about the McGuyvered adapter!
Wonder if it gets hot over time. 🤔
…I really don’t know electronics and want to pick it up soon haha.
Resistance depends on material and length, steel is fine for that short distance
Incidentally Earth can carry a lot of current since though it has high resistivity, the conductor is about 18,000km across
I can’t believe this picture of the “adapter” I made 15 years ago is finally relevant. Think I was just missing a cable extender so made one myself
I don’t know why, but I laughed quite hard at this. Try putting “…mine has a little molex snake in the middle…” in any other context. XD
On a more serious not, “yes” to everything you said. I “mounted” them to a repurposed bathroom rack. :)
Banana plugs are a thing, and might even have plugged into the hole on the RCA jacks (probably not as they’re usually too wide, but it’s technically possible… I think - never tried it myself). However, they’re single conductors, not dual like RCA plugs are.
ETA: And, yes - I’m aware of the recent Tom’s Hardware article you’re referencing.
I removed the 3.3v from my sata cables last night and threw an “I told you I can figure shit out on my own as a man” up at my dead electrician father. That’ll show him to not teach me to be proud of myself…
Also, help me. Fractal Node (fits 10). Proxmox. TrueNas. 1 zfs2 VDEV using 5 of 8 SAS HBA
Adding 2nd swath of 5. Using remaining 3 SAS HBA and they’re working, the 3.3v fix worked including one disk on a chain with the original swath that didn’t require the fix.
The 2 remaining new disks have no SAS slots to use, so using SATA but proxmox won’t detect them to even setup the pass through.
Tested cables, disks, slots, etc. Enabled spin up on all sata in bios. Nada. Feels like a software or bus issue but I’m not technical. Need an adult
Supermicro X10sl7-f