MyBrainHurtsAfter being vaguely annoyed for months, I fixed an element
tautalasSame thing, window button for drivers window in my old mazda stopped working reliably, it would take a bunch to clicks and sometimes randomly would finally put the window back up. I let it go for like 6 months, finally got frustrated enough to remove the module, scratch off the carbon buildup on the electric pad, put everything back together, and boom works fine now. Another 20 minute fix after months of frustration.
Theres always something like that to fix man. Some things just take priority, then when you have the time, the energy, and the money in some cases, you fix it.
Ha, yeah I suppose it’s not like my to do list is desperate for tasks.
Are these the “standard” to have in the US? In Denmark I feel like almost all stoves use induction, and I’ve never seen ones with this design here, but they seem pretty normal to have in US.
SubArcticTundraI guess it depends how often people replace their cookers. We had one in the UK when I was little bit it was from the 80s
turboSnailMy kitchen was originally built in the 70s. Some of the furniture is still original too. I think my stove + oven combo is original as well. Definitely looks very 70s to me. It’s an electric device, so the dials and electrons are the only moving parts. Not that many things can break in a setup like this.
I love devices like that. Shame the energy efficiency will probably be poor by modern standards.
It uses electricity to make heat. That’s the one conversion where you can expect approximately 100% efficiency.
Modern stoves have fancy safety features and a flat glass top to make it look nicer. I don’t think the efficiency has gone up in the past 50 years.
Yeah, these are pretty standard in the US, especially in rentals. If you’re lucky, you can find a rental with a gas stove, but I’ve never actually seen one with an induction stove.
Interesting. Wondering if it’s due to difference in the available voltage? AFAIK in Denmark our stovetops+ovens used to pull 380 volt but now I think a lot makes do with 230v.
I have no clue if that factors into things, but my very casual searches for stoves/ovens
I think cost is probably the main factor. It looks like prices on induction ranges are coming down, but still priced as premium/luxury compared to the electric coils. I looked up the cheapest of both at the local big box home improvement store, and the cheapest option overall is $509 and available for pickup today. The cheapest induction range is $899 and is showing a 7 day lead time.
A lot of people in the US are also really attached to gas, and would choose gas over induction anyway. The cheapest gas ranges are just a little more expensive ($549) than the electric coils.
Ah, could be that too! On ikea.dk I can’t even see any non-induction. Although we also have some people that would always go for gas here as well. Could be some EU regulation too? I’m also really surprised of the cost difference: cheapest ikea option for 4 heating zone stovetop would be 1500 DKK + oven for 975 Dkk, totalling what is approx 400 USD. Would have thought US was wayy cheaper here
I’m in an older (1970s?) Canadian apartment where the motto is “death before replacements or upgrades.” I do see it reasonably often in older buildings, not so often in modern ones.
redlemaceWell, no more than once every 6 months anyway. The world needs a lot of fixing and my brain can only remember so much.
“Fell out of” doesn’t sound great for something that regularly shovels quite a bit of amps. Are the other ones properly connected?
Seem to be. Honestly, it’s an old rental and everything’s kind of faling apart.
Ah, I haven’t used a classical heating element like that in a while now
As I replace cookware I make sure to get induction-friendly replacements. One day I’ll be free!
Thanks!
But was it the… Fifth element?
Boron?
Bout time someone fixed it
Boron is love ask a metallurgist.
idunnololzI swapped out all the coils and drip pans last summer. I didnt realize you can just tug on the coil and it just comes off. Game changer.
I’m an expert at fixing washers and dryers. Not the mechanics of the drums and such, that’s real work, but that doesn’t break too often. It’s usually the circuit board/switch behind the big button.
Take off the covers, take pictures of the switch from every angle, and go look up the part number and model on Google. You’ll find it somewhere, possibly even Amazon. Carefully compare it to the pictures and order it.
When it arrives, pull out one plug on the circuit board and replace it, and do that with each plug, referring to your photos. Then comes the hard job of putting it all back together properly.
I just did it for my mom’s dryer. The service call, parts, and labor would have cost more than a new dryer. My repair was $145 for the part, which is already too expensive.
It’s never failed to work for me, and my wife is always amazed at any sign of competency from me. It usually gets me about 2 hours of goodwill until we’re back to normal, and I’m a moron again.