How America Got Hooked on Ultraprocessed Food

They promised convenience and cheap nutrition. But they became one of the greatest health threats of our time.

The New York Times

This all has very big "uncured bacon" energy to me (if you didn't already know: there's no such thing; vendors of uncured bacon performatively drive the same chemical nitrite reaction using vegetable extracts). For example: yogurt becomes a UPF simply by dint of adding carrageenan, which is on the order of calling dashi a UPF because of the kombu.

It's not that there isn't a very legitimate issue underneath all this: packaged, hyperpalatable, low-nutritional-density low-satiety foods are probably a major driver of health problems. It's just that "UPF" isn't the right metric for isolating those foods, and with the wrong metrics you end up in a similar place as California does with the Prop 65 warnings.

We went through a similar thing with "pink slime" (transglutaminase preservation techniques).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-a9VDIbZCU

Jamie Oliver's War on Nuggets

YouTube
I only get the bacon that says "No nitrates, no nitrites"

If you're talking about American-style bacon, and it tastes like bacon, there's no such thing. They're just exploiting labeling rules by selecting very specific nitrite sources. Nitrites are what give bacon (and ham) its flavor.

<strike>This is before we get to the whole premise of avoiding nitrates. Would you eat a beet? That's a serving of industrial bacon's worth of nitrates right there.</strike>

Later

(Actually, super bad example, since the concern is nitrosamines which are formed in the presence of proteins. The point about the illegitimacy of nitrite-free bacon stands!)

The Coleman bacon doesn't list ingredients. But the Applegate bacon lists celery powder because that is a source of nitrates. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celery_powder
Celery powder - Wikipedia

The Coleman one is the one I usually get these days, I used to get the Applegate.
I don't know much about either brand but there are good reasons to buy fancy bacon instead of Smithfield and Hormel, just because of the quality and ethics of the livestock inputs. But nitrites aren't one of those reasons.

>which is on the order of calling dashi a UPF because of the kombu

when you use a comparison like this, you choose an example that people will understand so they can then, by analogy, extend that understanding to the point you are trying to make...

like the kombu in the dashi, you say? dash-it-all, that's a combunation I hadn't considered!

If you don't do a lot of cooking, just think "this is a definition that suggests virtually all traditional Japanese cooking is UPF".

> It's just that "UPF" isn't the right metric for isolating those foods

I've heard this criticism a fair bit, and I sort of agree. The only thing is, what is the right metric? And if we don't have one, and know these foods are causing harm, should we just use UPF as a term anyway?

I don't know, it's a hard problem, but I think there's good public policy evidence that when you do these things wrong (as with Prop 65 cancer warnings and nitrates) you lose all the benefits the labeling tries to provide.

The book Ultra-Processed People by Chris van Tulleken really opened my eyes about UPF. I highly recommend it. Here is a video of him delivering a lecture at the royal institution about the topic: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=j1oOoYnCfJs

I don't think adding kombu to dashi would count as UPF according to the book's definition.

Ultra processed foods and the third age of eating - with Chris van Tulleken

YouTube

I don't know that it does, but I do know that carrageenan does, and they're both just seaweed extracts.

Later

This video is really frustrating. The first half of it is making relatively banal arguments about the importance of food to health. He's setting up an argument that I think basically everybody agrees with (hyperpalatable packaged food are a major driver of illness). But then he gets to UPFs, says the definition is totally agreed on, and then says they're all made by investor-driven large corporations.

That's just straightforwardly false. I made a mac & cheese out of some stored roasted cauliflower (never put a raw cauliflower in your fridge). To melt the aged cheddar I used, I added a half teaspoon of sodium citrate (a miracle ingredient). My cauli-mac is now a UPF. No giant corporation made it.

My argument isn't that packaged food isn't exactly as much of a problem as the UPF people say it is. My argument is that "UPF" is not the right axis on which to determine which foods are and aren't healthy.

Why does yogurt need carrageenan though? The bacteria already solidifies the milk.
Some yogurt formulations will separate without it.
Are you confusing pink slime and meat glue?
No, "pink slime" refers to processed meat trim that is packaged and made palatable with meat glue.