Rewired an old florescent tube fixture for LED with a ballast delete
Rewired an old florescent tube fixture for LED with a ballast delete
Are the fuses extra protection? The ballast bypass diagram I found didn’t mention it
Which one are the fuse holders? The black or white plastic pieces? The orange one looks like twist connectors
The diagram I originally referred to was on the packaging for the tubes I bought (GE Direct Wire 96" T8), but it’s basically this:
manuals.plus/…/GE-current-LEDL136-LED-Double-Ende…
In my case (double-ended lamps, 6 ballast wires, right side of the diagram above) the fuse goes between the hot and the red/blue wires leading to the sockets. I’ve actually got two of them since the fixture has 4 tubes in it. Hope this helps!
They don’t care if it’s AC or DC
I figured this was most likely the case, glad to have it confirmed. I just wanted to err on the side of caution
Caution: fuses, breakers, resistors, and quite frankly, all electric or electronic components, have a voltage rating. A 12vdc automotive fuse is not built with sufficient clearance or creepage to guarantee that 120vac or 230vac won’t accidentally conduct to the wrong places.
A quick look at high-voltage fuses up on a utility pole reveals that they are indeed built larger for higher voltage. OP is correct to be concerned, but because of voltage, not necessarily because of AC or DC.
I couldn’t grok exactly what you did, and my interest wasn’t piqued enough to really be interested.
But you did the thing and it had meaning for you, so that’s great. Keep on keeping on.
I won’t need updates, but share if you must.
10/10 dmc post tho