ICE trunk line Frankfurt – Basel. Admittedly, they are working on it.

You don’t pay attention for one second and Freiburg is painted with ETCS stop markers.

Are they doing both ETCS and LZB here? Surely not?

Basel SBB one minute early. Yeah, I don’t know what’s going on either.

I hope those guys are just out and about to enjoy the sun.

Be ironic if SBB now fell apart completely.

Good to know that the quiet area is a joke in Switzerland as well.
Is the IC21 supposed to go via Küssnacht? The app says via Rotsee which makes me think it should go via Rotkreuz?
I see my connecting train is on time.
Reached my destination for today. I show you why in a minute, but first I have to check into the hotel, the receptionist wants to go home.
Lake Lucerne. Over there, I think on the meadow low on the second mountain on the left, this whole Switzerland thing started.
I’ve passed through Brunnen by train hundreds of times and it always looked rather inviting in its little nook of the lake. Finally, I’m stopping.
I saved this one for the trip. And yes, the bookmark is a Stena cabin key. Seems apt.

I might have had a stange too many, but I am very happy with my choice. What a lovely little town Brunnen is.

Also, I think this is Rigi up there.

At checkout, the lady asked if I am continuing to Italy on foot. we agreed that I really should but that the train is also nice.

Off to the bahnhof!

Decided to take the time and travel the scenic route across San Gottardo. It is one of the great mountain railways of this world and taking the base tunnel feels heretic.

Obligatory picture of the church of Wassen.

Coming out of the tunnel and definitely being in Ticino is … a bit emotional to be honest.

These new copper trains* are nice. But doing this run in a first class EW II with its lounge chairs as the first carriage behind an Re 4/4 II and a driver who feels offended by running a couple minutes late is where it’s at.

* Officially they are called Traverso, in case you want to look them up.

In Bellinzona, there’s a connection to a Eurocity directly to Venice.

Ha!

Instead, I am changing in Giubiasco to this TILO train because, to do this properly, I also have to go over Monte Ceneri which got its own, lesser known base tunnel.

This detour over Monte Ceneri is worth doing. As the train climbs up to the pass, you have great views over the wide Ticino valley all the way to Locarno and Lago Maggiore.

The jingle of Swiss railway is a simple tritone. But: it is different for each of the three main languages (SBB doesn’t operate where Rumantsch is spoken). The abbreviation for each language is taken as notes, with E flat standing in for S because its German name is Es which is also how you pronounce the letter s.

So, the tritone is E♭ B B for German SBB, C F F for French CFF, and F F E♭for Italian FFS.

There is a version replacing the last note with its cord, which is used for announcing major stops.

In my day,* if you wanted to go to Milano and avoid the Cisalpino (what is now again the Eurocity) with its extortionist prices and risk of being “completto,” you had to walk through customs in Chiasso to get to a rake of cramped piano ribassato carriages pulled by a Caimano, stopping at a million places all starting with a C and getting later and later in the process.

Now there is this shiny new Flirt running as an hourly regional express from Locarno via Lugano, Como, and Monza to Milan.

Some things are getting better.

* „Opa erzählt vom Krieg.“

The train is still jingling F-F-Es in Italy. Shouldn’t it be either F-Es or F-F-Es-Es?
Oh drat, I forgot about these things (repressed is probably the better term). I’m not going to do this for two hours straight. Most of my ideas for branch line adventures have fallen apart due to bus substitution, so my current plan is very silly. First, I endure this thing for half an hour to Treviglio.
In Treviglio I am turning right with the help of the big sister of the ICNG. I wanted to try one again, anyway, because I thought its suspension is better. And I want to see indeed it is. It feels softer and the rattling is less pronounced. Or maybe I am just biased?
We really are in the flat bits of Italy now.

At Casalbuttano we are waiting for an oncoming train. Weirdly, we are scheduled a stop from 13:55 to 13:56 and them from 13:59 to 14:00. Single track only on either side.

Not sure how this is supposed to work?

I am changing trains in Olmeneta, to go back north to Brescia (told you this is silly). There’s nothing here, just a forgotten railway station baking in the July sun.

The trains are timetabled so that I could have changed in Cremona in stop further down the line and an actual town. But where’s the fun in that?

“Traffic is still severely slowed at the Naples hub due to technical checks following a seismic event.” Okay?
Back on the main line in Brescia. Minor problem: this train is a single Rock and packed to the gills. Now it would be handy if people actually respected first class.

Five minute transfer in Verona, so I decided to head towards the doors early. and triggered everyone else getting up.

The capotreno announced the platform for the train to Venice in both Italian and English. That can’t be good.

Did you know that Italian high speed lines apparently are just motorways with tracks put on top?
Vicenza doesn’t have east platforms like many Italian stations, it has garden platforms instead.

This epsiode of Using Branch Lines to Avoid Busy Main Line Trains (I am now in an empty Pop instead of a very busy Rock) is brought to you by the Railway History Map, your indispensable guide when planning a trip the roundabout way (and being disappointed by bus replacement).

https://map.railwayhistory.org/#overview@9/45.649/11.9062

Castelfranco Veneto.

About as Italian junction station as it gets.

Are we nearly there yet?
First impression: Away from the main thoroughfare, Venice is still fine.

Buongiorno!

The hotel I booked doesn’t do their own breakfast but give you a voucher for a bar around the corner. Which is a great solution – you get proper coffee rather than something from a machine.

This is going to be a very church-heavy day.
Rule number one: put away the phone with its map apps and try to get wherever you want to go without a map. Yes, you will get lost. No, that is the point.
But first: A man on a horse.

My new hobby: Watch people schlepp modern luggage across medieval bridges and be unduly smug about my Cross the Alps on Foot-style equipment.

Top tip: If your kids still need strollers, postpone your visit to Venice for a bit.

@partim Parenting top tip: very few(*) kids NEED strollers once they can walk. Most parents just don’t seem to be patient enough for children’s walking pace or practicing a little to get them used to walking longer distances.

(*) disabilities etc