Worf's ShortsJun 20
Averixus

I made shoes! A process thread...

@sewing

#sewing #shoes #shoemaking #sneakerkit

Jun 16 at 2:49pmWeb
Show threadAverixusJun 16

I started with soles from sneakerkit (they're not paying me). They come with stitch holes pre-marked, and the website has downloadable patterns/templates for the uppers with the stitch holes marked which makes all the assembly easy.

I wanted converse clones so I started with the "classic 3 in 1" design and adjusted it a bit. I made the ankles a bit higher. And made the tongue piece extend further along the foot so that it overlaps the side piece without risk of gaps.

Show threadAverixusJun 16
The examples on their website are all with single-layer leather, but I used two layers of canvas for each piece. Sew right sides together, grade seams, flip, and topstitch to secure.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
Followed by a frankly unnecessary amount of extra top stitching.
Show threadAverixusJun 16

I used Prym vario pliers to punch the holes and add the eyelets. It was physically quite hard work, but not complicated (and very satisfying).

I'm pleased with myself for remembering to wash the chalk marks off *before* I started assembling them with the soles.

Show threadAverixusJun 16
I poked holes through the stitch marks on my paper pattern pieces, then used them as a template to mark pen dots on the fabric. I did the same on both sides so that I could easily see what I was stitching from both directions, but because the fabric pieces had strayed a bit from the pattern shape during assembly the dots ended up a few mm misaligned in some places. It seemed to work out fine though.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
Assembly was a simple running stitch going all the way around the sole, and then back again to complete the stitch, using thick waxed cotton thread and a giant needle. The hardest parts were sewing through the tongue and side pieces together where they overlapped, and getting the needle through from the inside at the very end of the toe.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
I was too scared to burn the ends of the thread even though that's apparently the proper way, so I just tied them off and tucked the ends back through a stitch.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
Just add laces!
Show threadAverixusJun 16
The stitching and raw edges are exposed on the inside with no lining, but the insoles pretty much cover up the actual raw edges so hopefully that will stop too much fraying. I could have turned in the bottom edges and topstitched them down to make it more secure but I didn't want it to be too lumpy inside the shoe.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
Some more close-ups:
Show threadAverixusJun 16
It was so scary trying them on, because they're such a complicated 3D shape there is absolutely no possible way to tell whether they'll fit until they're 100% assembled. But they do!
Show threadAverixusJun 16

There's a couple of tweaks I'd make for next time though. Although I brought the ankle up a bit higher, it still wasn't as high as I like it. And I didn't bring the tongue up enough so the laces knot sits right at the top edge of the tongue instead of comfortable in front of it.

I also don't like how many eyelets there are. I just went with the sneakerkit template and used eight, but I realised afterwards that converse high tops only have seven, and the ankle goes up higher.

Show threadAverixusJun 16
Plus, the heel shape is a bit off. The sneakerkit recommended pattern has the pieces joined along the top of the heel, and then notched at the bottom to allow them to splay out, with the notch hidden under the tab sticking up from the back of the sole. But the heel has ended up with too sharp an inward angle which doesn't feel quite right. Next time I'll try the converse construction style, with the sides as two separate pieces, and a strip down the back covering the seam.
Show threadAverixusJun 16
If these end up too uncomfortable I might just cut a slit down the back, let it out, and cover it with a strip. Or disassemble them completely and try again with the two-piece construction method - because even though all the top stitching was laborious, they use such a tiny amount of fabric that I have loads leftover.
Show threadAverixusJun 16

This is the closest I've ever come to Just Following A Pattern - because it was the only way to get the stitch template that matched the sole. And basically I've learned that I was right all along to mistrust patterns and I will always end up with something I like more if I draft it from scratch. Good to know for sure!

/thread

Show threadclewJun 16

wonderful write up, really handsome shoes, I hadn’t heard of sneaker kit, thank you!

So much work pre-fit-test, even if each seam is short…. there are probably shoemaker’s published systems for measuring feet from when custom shoes were more common? But aiming at very different shoes than ours.

@Averixus

Show threadink and yarnJun 16
@Averixus These are awesome!!
Show threadSindarina, Edge Case DetectiveJun 16
@Averixus Kewl 😄
Show threadEmile SnyderJun 16
@Averixus thank you for the thread! I love seeing project write ups like this 🤩
Show threadMxBikil is Spoopy 🎃 and Gay ❄️Jun 16
@Averixus amazing! I love seeing all this and I love your learnings from it!
Show threadAstaJun 16
@Averixus Such cool looking shoes! I've been thinking about trying sneakerkit for a while, maybe seeing this is the boost I need. 😄
Show threadNúriaJun 16
@Averixus loved reading through your process. And this is my favorite bit!
Show threadAnnaJun 17
@Averixus they are so cool. Thank you for showing us all the details!
Show threadFranque-Emmanuel TLGJun 17
@Averixus they look great, love the colour.
Show thread Aurin needs💸Jun 17

@Averixus
Oooh, fascinating! thanks so much for sharing!

I'm the same about patterns lol 😂
I always tweak them and often wish I'd tweaked them even more!

Show threadGallen 🔜 EFJun 18
@Averixus
Those sneakers look very spiffy! Thanks for sharing!
Show threadNike LeonhardJun 20
@Averixus
Phantastic!
Show threadIsocatJun 28
@Averixus Wow, impressive!
Show threadN95 subnet mask 😷Jun 16
@Averixus Awesome! 😆
Show threadIan Brown Jun 17
@Averixus so cool! They look fantastic. Thanks for documenting the process!!!
Show threadscrottie (he/him/they)Jun 17
@Averixus Beautiful... I've been on a mission for ages to find a decent pair of Cons clones that don't fall apart in a few months. I don't imagine you're for hire but hmu if so. Sailing, I melt the ends of lines all of time. Being upwind of the fumes helps and a quick puff like you're blowing out birthday candles works to put out a flame even for much larger line but a bowl of water near by works too. The flame doesn't travel fast. Thank you for sharing!
Show threadlpsJun 16
@Averixus what an incredible result, congratulations!
Show threadVicki DavisJun 16
@Averixus this is fantastic, thank you so much for sharing
Show threadAshJun 16
@Averixus Wow!!
Show threadLeaJun 16
Are you for real?!? You made these yourself?!?!? These are SO cool!!!
Show threadTxo!?Jun 16
@Averixus Amazing 🤩 Didn't know you could do this.
Thanks for posting it
Show threadSunandaJun 16
@Averixus @sewing this is so cool!
Show threadThomas RigbyJun 16
@Averixus @sewing well, they're gorgeous 😍
Show threadEin WesenJun 16
@Averixus @sewing that is incredible!
Show threadSebastiaan Ammerlaan 🇳🇱Jun 16
@Averixus These look absolutely amazing.
Show threadCobalt (Rainbow system)Jun 16
@Averixus Amazing!
Show thread🐈‍⬛ Amaranth (amvi)Jun 17
@Averixus this is awesome!
Show threadLeaJun 17
Can someone who never made shoes make this with the kit, do you think? I'd love to make some but I am scared
Show threadAverixusJun 17
@leaskleinenaehwelt I've never made shoes before these! If you've done some sewing before that will be a bit of a bonus. But if you use leather (rather than canvas like me) then there's hardly any sewing either. They have nice tutorial videos on the website too :)
Show threadLeaJun 20
@Averixus@toot.wales Thank you so much! I will absolutely try this!!!❤️
Show threadMaarten De BalJun 17
@Averixus @sewing
great work, good looking shoes!
Had a look at Sneakerkit, too bad the soles are quite expensive.
Show threadCaius PupusJun 23
@mdebal @Averixus @sewing You could use leather soles with a more traditional construction. I make boots often and sometimes shoes so if you have any question, just feel free to ask.
Show threadAnu ReddyJun 18
@Averixus amazing!! Thanks for sharing the process. Inspires me to try making my own :)
Show threadProf. Sam LawlerJun 18
@Averixus I've never even thought about making shoes! You've sent me down a lovely rabbit hole, thank you.
Show threadJoJun 19
@Averixus @ai6yr 👆👆look, shoes