From Ōtsuka to Ikebukuro: Shōwa Vibes, Streetcars, and the Sleazier Side of Town

A walk from Ōtsuka to Ikebukuro on Tokyo’s Yamanote Line quickly takes us from a long-forgotten Shōwa-era neighborhood to the bright lights and long shadows of one of Tokyo’s bigger, more intriguing, and controversial subcenters, giving us a bonus: the chance to enjoy a rare ride on a streetcar line. Unusual Views Along the Northwestern Yamanote My quest to find some of Tokyo’s half-hidden treasures and overlooked spots takes me to Ōtsuka Station. This plain-looking area apparently has little to offer besides Ōtsuka Golf Plaza, one of the very few driving ranges to be found in central Tokyo (another one