Fastmail works great, but for obvious reasons I’m interested in an alternative located outside the US, preferably Europe.

Proton readily comes to mind: does anyone here have any experience with them for email? Also any cautionary tales, horror stories?

Any other suggestions?

(not looking to self-host at this point)

@shadower I'm trying Proton too. Also Proton password manager.
My issue is that so much of our hardware (PC and mobile phones) are tied into Microsoft and Google that it is so hard to just uncouple completely.