tetris11How much of a game changer was USB-C for you, compared to other cables?
lnxtx (xe/xem/xyr)So far it’s a mess.
I still have Micro USB devices, so I need two cables or USB-C→Micro USB adapter.
I have PCs without USB-C ports, so another adapter needed USB-C → USB-A.
But, I can now “dock” my new-ish laptop with only one USB-C ↔ USB-C cable to a monitor.
Monitor gives power.
chaosCruiserI’m still in the messy stage, but I’ve made preparations for C. Pretty soon I’ll get a newer used phone and tablet, and they’re both going to be type C.
Currently I have a few things that use C, so I’ve got some cables and chargers for them. Once the transition is complete, I’ll get rid of a bunch of old cables.
maccentricIf your PC has PCIE slots you can get a USB-C card for around $25
Make sense, thanks.
AmputretCompared to USB-A, not really that much of a game changer (it’s still the most common for me). Though I do not miss the three rotations to get it in.
Compared to Micro-USB? Holy fuck, I almost refuse to buy anything still using Micro-USB ported now. Mainly because I can’t never find the fucking cable for it.
superkretThe holes point up or the right.
But like… not always. Wall adapters (at least US ones) can be plugged in upside down, so if that’s upside down the holes face down. I have a 3d printer who’s motherboard is mounted on the top of the chassis, flipping the USB port so that it’s “upside down”. A lot of cheap dual-USB chargers that have the two USB ports right next to each other have them mirrored, so one faces up and the other faces down.
Granted, I’ve always found the “argh USB!!!” frustration to be more a meme than anything; when I’m plugging in a USB device, I likely know what orientation the male side is (flash drives and the like are usually oriented the same way), and it takes half a second of paying attention when going to plug it in to look at the female port to see what direction it’s meant to go in.
TonyTonyChopperso many of my devices have the ports installed upside down
Not much of a game changer for me. I have a couple portable battery bricks that use micro USB to charge, so I just plugged lightning and USB C adapters in those ports and now lug around lightning and USB C cables as opposed to lightning and micro
WashedOverDepends on if it is still using USB 2.0 or 3.0+ standard for data transfer. I love the mostly plug it in way you like option Ivey micro usb, but trying to do photo file transfers from older/cheaper USB C with 2.0 is brutally slow if needed.
I like it, but not enough stuff uses it yet to be a true game changer.
Not much. There was USB 3.0 even before the USB-C, so bandwidth-wise it’s hasn’t been a game changer. Over the years I’ve used a bunch of phones and other devices with Micro USB Type B and I’ve had one or two cables fail, but not at the connector. In fact the mouse I’m still using has Micro USB for charging and it’s been fine.
Fucking awesome, it is. When I travel, I take 1 laptop power cord. Chargers my phone, laptop, Switch, and backup battery. (The backup battery’s output ports are USB-A, but it’s got a lil converter cable that stays in the lil bag that the backup battery is stored in.)
It’s the best. So much so that not having usb c, has become a deciding factor if i buy something or not. It also seems a bit of a quality insurance, even if it’s just a little. But electronics with micro or even mini usb is usually just some cheap shit or that old and they are still selling it.
LibbNot at all?
I mean, it’s just another and one more type of cable. Sure, in theory it’s simpler than many various vales and it’s even less stupid than the previous USB types but it’s still a mess.
At least, for non-geek me, those cables are a mess as I need to be able to distinguish between the exact same cable to find which one is USB-C or Thunderbolt, between the various versions of USB-C itself, and then between USB-C that comes with or without power delivery, and with what power limitation? And then, despite USB-C supposedly being a standard there are still too many cables that just won’t work with certain devices because reasons.
Add to that the many USB-C docks (and dongles) that work… more or less reliably and more or less as marketed (even more so under Linux, but those issues exist under Mac and under Windows as well).
Older cables and ports were cumbersome, and thick and whatever but, as far as I’m concerned, for the most part they just worked like they were supposed to. And I never had an issue knowing which cable to plug into which port as they all looked, you know, different.
Nowadays, I have to label each one of my USB-C cable with some masking tape so I can identify it in a glimpse without wasting my time trying them all one by one.
MagisterExcept maybe some devices (like IoT) that are powered up by an always plugged micro-usb, my cellphone is USB-C for a long time now, and my laptop has 3 USB-C/TB (no A), so it’s easier for a couple of stuff. But I have a usb-c hub with multiple USB-A outlet because I still have a couple of devices to plug like keyboard, trackball, webcam, headset, UPS, FTDI stuff, etc.
No more micro-USB plugging/unplugging for phones.
The prob with usb-c is mainly for powering hungry devices, you need 60W cable, 100W cable, 240W cable, etc.
QuarterSwedeJSAUX makes a great 240W cable that’s fairly priced and has 240W printed on the ends. It’s stiff but that’s because it’s actually gauged for 240W. I just decided to buy those in blue for anything that required more watts than mobile devices. Then I get at least 30W rated cables in red for all the mobile stuff. Super easy to know which is which.
I get my 60w and 100w cable at Ikea, they meet world standards and I trust them.
No more than any other cable.
I like it, I was a USB-micro B cable guy for almost all my electronics. It was a yearlong transition for me to phase it out in favour of USBC, but it was just with upgrading electronics, not because I wanted to ditch the cable format specifically.
Charging and data transfer aspects weren’t much of my concern, until I learned about USB-PD and video via USB, that was pretty cool. I like the reversible connector, too many times I jammed the cable in the port the wrong way.
talWell, for me, the selling points are:
-
Versus earlier versions of USB, it’s reversible. This isn’t a game changer, I guess, but it’s definitely nice to not have to fiddle plugs around all the time.
-
I don’t know if it’s the only form of USB that does USB PD – I’d guess not – but in practice, it seems to be pretty strongly associated with USB PD. Having USB PD isn’t essential, but it makes charging larger devices, like laptops, a lot more practical. I can lug around a power station that doesn’t need to have an embedded inverter.
I still feel that it’s kind of physically small and weak compared to USB A. That’s an okay tradeoff for small portable devices that don’t have the space for larger connectors, but I’m kinda not enthralled about it on desktop. I worry more about bending connectors (and I have bent them before).
So for me, I’d say that it’s definitely nice, but not really in a game changing sense. I could do the things it can do in somewhat-worse ways prior to USB-C.
My house has always lagged behind in the newest tech for one reason or another. Usually it’s because I end up adopting everyone’s old electronics, but sometimes it’s because we have old devices for kids.
USB C is better for me because I’m no longer fumbling to connect the charger late at night. I also appreciate that the charger works for other devices, but that was common for me with micro USB. There were also devices I had that took mini USB.
Now most of the different mini USB devices are gone, but I still have devices that need micro USB. Right not, that’s my third party Xbox controllers I inherited and use for PC games. Tandem’s T-slim insulin pump was also behind when we got them. Charging the pumps or using the controllers now means we are scrambling for an “old charger.”
With
Total game changer. Plug all my peripherals into my monitor. USB C from my monitor to my work laptop. After work I plug it into my home desktop. Also just having one charger and one cable for my phone, steam deck and laptop is amazing especially for work trips.
I despise micro-USB with a passion. Even more than mini-USB. It is so flimsy, it’s always been the first thing to die on my wireless devices, including my older phones.
If a device charges through USB, I consider not having USB-C to be a deal breaker. Right now I’m waiting for a USB-C socket breakout panel because I want to convert my Xbox One controller from micro to C.
I regularly, accidentally, grab a USB-C>USB-C cable instead of USB-A>USB-C. And then I think by myself, I’ve never had this many cables that don’t fit.
Good thing is, I have plenty of USB-C cables of different lengths, most of which I don’t know the origin. At least they’re in a box in my home and not in a landfill.
Not at all, its slightly more convenient.
If all cables were created equal then it’s kind of a big deal that laptops can now charge via USB-C. Proprietary chargers can suck my ass.
Summer up how I feel about usb C now.
I'm the Professor!
VanthI certainly like it better, it’s an improvement, but “game changer” is strong. I’m slowly replacing gadgets to USB C through attrition. The charge port has ceased to be the failure point for any of the gadgets I own. My pile of spare cables is still excessive, but moving further back in my storage closet because I need them less and less.
How do you know if the cable is a C type of USB?
You look at the ends that plug into stuff
Oh do they have the letter printed on it?
No? Ok thanks.
No? Ok thanks.
No, but they’re very visually distinct from USB-A, USB-B, Mini USB, and Micro USB.
The letters correspond to the physical connector. The rectangle one everyone knows is A, B is the square connector usually used with printers and other accessories. C is a small, oval connector, and the first one that can be plugged in “upside down” because it’s symmetrical.
C is now common on phones and tablets and other smaller devices. If the connector is ovalish but even smaller and weirdly shaped, that’s one of the mini/micro USB variants and you need to find the right cable to match.
(If you have a USB C cable and i won’t fit into the oval connector because it’s too big, that’s Lightning made by Apple before C existed and is only found on their devices. You have to get a cable with Lightning on at least one end.)
Thank you
It’s been more of a pain in the arse than initially expected.
Most motherboards (for example) only have 2-4 USB-C ports, meaning that I still need to employ A-C and C-C cables for peripherals etc.
My main gripe is that the standard just tries to do too many things without clear delineation/markings:
Is it a USB 2.0 (480Mbit), 5Gbit, 10Gbit or 20Gbit cable? Can’t really tell from the plug alone.
More importantly, for charging devices: How the heck do I determine maximum wattage I can run?
For all its faults, at least the blue colour of a USB-3.0 plug (or additional connectors for B/Micro) made it easy to differentiate !
Now I’m eyeing up a USB Cable tester just to validate and catalogue my growing collection! 🤦🏻♂️
I wonder about this too. Can I plug my laptop’s USB-C charger into my phone? Or is that a big nono
Yes, you can. The charger and the device communicate between one another what they can support, and pick the highest one they both agree on.
E.G. my laptop charger can charge at full speed (100W) for my MacBook, but only at 20W for my iPhone.
That bit is pretty straightforward and transparent to end users (there are a few rare conditions where devices might not agree on the fastest, and have to fall back to a slower one); the issue is more with cables not having sufficient gauge wire, or missing connections that prevent the charger and device from communicating their full functionality.
KlankyI charge by Bluetooth headphones ‘pod’ with my Steam Deck charger and it seems to be ok.
MentalEdgeThe deck charger uses USB PD. It will charge anything that supports the standard as fast as possible (up to its rated 65W) and use normal 5v USB for everything else.
Should be okay, that USB-PD would detect the correct voltage and current.
For the power matter, you don’t. The device being charged, the charger, and cable does.
If you mean what is the maximum wattage that will actually be used, that should be the maximum possible between the charger, cable, and device. So look at their specs. Whichever has the lowest maximum, is what the others will match.
USB PD defines a protocol for the device and charger to determine max safe power. If the cable is replacable (not attached to the charger), it must be rated for PD and be able to tell the charger it can handle more than just the usual 5 volts at 2 amps.
USB PD chargers only output the maximum safe amount of power. That’s why I can use my 65W steamdeck charger to charge my phone if I want to. It just outputs normal USB charger power if the device on the other end can’t verify it can handle more.
It’s also why my SteamDeck charger is what I use to fast charge my phone, because it can actually talk to it using the USB PD protocol to request the voltage and amps it needs to fast charge.
To clarify; I have a 100W Ugreen Nexode 4 Port USB Charger that I use to charge my laptop (~60W), Steam Deck (~40W), iPhone (~20W) and AirPods (~5?W).
The problem is if my original product cable has gone walkabout temporarily and I need to use a random one to stand in - there is no clear way of telling if I’m accidentally using a 5W-max cheap cable to try and keep my laptop charged while working.
Obviously there are some context clues depending on cable thickness etc., but with how common cosmetic braiding is becoming a thing - even that’s getting harder to rely on.
Some kind of cable labeling would be nice.
UltraHamster64It’s even more annoying that there are different possible pinouts in the port itself without clear labling. So always use the one cable that came with the peripheral, or you have a chance to fry it
USB Cable tester
Great idea, and then:
I was actually thinking coloured O rings to define specs, but that still means I’d need to have a colours guide somewhere too…
…yours might be a more practical solution. 🤔
You could fit some key numbers and letters on those O rings, I like it!
UnityDeviceJust recently I had a tech store guy gently but repeatedly insist to me that a certain USB cable was a USB 3 cable because it was type C on both ends. I didn’t wanna argue with him, but the box clearly said “480 Mbit”, so it was just a type C charging cable.
Of course the box designers were hoping you’d make that mistake so they didn’t write USB 2 on there, just the speed. And most boxes won’t even have that, you’ll just have to buy it and see.
But I mean if someone who spent their whole life fixing computers can get something that basic wrong, then it’s really a hopeless situation for anyone who isn’t techy.
And of course once it’s out of the box it’s anyone’s guess what it is. It’s a real mess for sure.
Its convenient and superior to Micro. But mostly its just nice that both mine ans my wife’s phone uses the same cord.
I bought a high quality USB C charger with a couple nice cables to keep plugged in in my living room. I use it to charge my phone, my girlfriend’s phone, my tablet, my laptop, my Switch, and my vape pen. I never have to go looking for another charger and it charges all of those things at a very acceptable rate. I’d qualify that as a game changer.
SmokeyDopeUsbc-pd is an absolute game changer as an off grid person. The facg a 100w charger can act as a dc to dc converter with up to five output voltages, at up to 100 watts is crazy. And that the protocol automatically detects and communicates the proper voltage is very convinent. The problem is that usbc-pd 100w chargers are expensive and you need to know what you are doing if you want to diy power appliances with it.
I’m curious as to what exactly you do with it as an off-grid person, and what you mean by DC-to-DC converter.
Im happy to explain pastermil. So first off let’s talk power. Most off-grid electrical systems have a few major components. A device that generates electrical energy, a battery that stores excess electrical energy for later, and a power distribution interface which allows for connecting appliances to the batteries in a safe standardized way.
My particular electric system has a 200w solar panel for power generation, two 20ah lifepo4 batteries for capacitance, and the charge controller acts as a very basic interface with two usba slots and a car cigarette port.
Now let’s talk about AC and DC appliances. Theres essentially two kinds of electrical power people deal with. The one most people are familiar with is AC power it comes to your home from power plants through power lines and transformer boxes. Its very high voltage so only high power devices like kitchen appliances and washing machines and AC compressors use it directly. It’s why american homes have a special circuit for 240v.
Besides that, most consumer devices dont actually use AC power, it uses DC power. Desktop computer power supplies, Laptops, monitors, vaporizers, led lights, DVD players, audio speakers, everything that can powered by usb and batteries. Everything that has barrel plug inputs and power bricks.
If you look closely on the power bricks that plug into your wall, you’ll see that it has an input and output voltage rating. The input tends to be 120vac here in america 240v over the pond, and the output tends to be either 5v, 9v, 12v, 15v or 20v DC usually up to 5 amps.
Laptops and computer monitors tend to be 20v, fast charging smart phones and the Nintendo switch docked are 15v, very bright home LED lights can be bought that are powered at 12v directly, the ps2 could be powered with 9v, and most usb devices charge at standard 5v. Would you like to guess which voltage profiles the USBC-PD protocol is capable of? Its all of them.
Now let’s discuss energy efficiency. Converting from AC to DC eats up some of your power. So does converting from DC to AC. And its not small losses either, each time you convert its about a 10-15% loss in efficency.
This loss through conversion doesn’t matter when you pay cents on a kilowatt and have unlimited power at the tap. It adds up very quickly when you have a limited power supply.
Let’s say I want to power a laptop on my offgrid DC system, and I only know how to power it with the AC cable that it came with. I would need to
Add these up and you get 30-40% of your power eaten up needlessly double converting the power. Wouldnt it be really nice if we could convert the battery DC voltage directly to the appliance DC voltage without those power hungry inverters and transformers?
Thats where dc to dc converters come in. They still introduce efficency loss but way way less only 10% total. A USBC-pd 100w car charger that plugs into a cigarette port can convert a batteries 12vDC into 5v, 9v, 12v 15v, and 20v dynamically depending on the device.
Do you know how magical that is? How much trouble that saves when it comes to mcguyvering a DC appliance that only came with AC cable to supply proper power directly? All I need is a 10$ cable to manually select the voltage needed and some barrel plug adapter bits to fit into the appliance.
Is DC why my 12V water pump doesn’t run but the LED bulbs on the same circuit are fine? The pump is by the creek and I’m thinking it can’t pull enough amps over the length of the run. Working on that today.
If you have a volt meter and know how to use it check the voltage at the start of the run and compare it to the end of the run and see how much the voltage has dropped. If your trying to push 12v over 20-30ft I would say theres a good chance of it being too little voltage over too far a length. Wire diameter is also a factor if its very small gauge wiring.
No voltage drop, but it’s an easy 80’, maybe 100, maybe even a little more. Hard to say as it cuts through the woods.
Picked up an old Fluke at the store, I’ll try an figure out how to read amps.
Did you measure voltage drop across the pump while it’s trying to start up? The voltage will only drop when there’s current being drawn. So with the pump off you woukd see full supplt volts even on a highly resistive line. You could try lugging a battery down to the pump, and jump it to get it started, then remove the battery jumpers but keep the pump running on your main run, then measure the volts across the pump.
I appreciate that you’re really thorough, both with that explaination as well as the implementation in the first place.
I guess I’ve never give it much thought. I mean, I’m familiar with electricity, but I’m paying dirt cheap for it.
One more question: How do you do your lighting? Most light fixtures I know are using e27 bulbs, which are AC powered. I know the LED panels requires driver circuits between them and the main, theoretically they probably could live off your DC straight-up, but they’re generally a pain to work with.